R E C I P E S

Zucchine alla Scapece (Summer Squash with Vinegar and Mint) 

By Edward Behr

Scapece is Italian for fish or vegetables fried and preserved for a short time in vinegar along with mint and often garlic and other aromatic flavorings. It likely comes from the Spanish escabeche, which applies the basic concept to fish and is originally Arab. (For related recipes, see zucca all’agrodolce, sardele in saor, and escabetx de verats. In many parts of Italy, zucchine, in the Italian sense of any summer squash, are prepared alla scapece, with possible additions of cured anchovy or raisins and pine nuts. Naples has a special affection for scapece of zucchini, in the North American sense of long green summer squash, called cucuzielle in Neapolitan. The best variety is the somewhat vining heirloom Costata Romanesca, originally from around Rome. Neapolitan recipes often call for slicing the squash, salting and drying it a bit in the sun, then rinsing and drying it with a towel, before cooking. Some people also cook the garlic and mint; I prefer them raw. The scapece is always served tepid or cold, and everyone agrees that it tastes better after 24 hours. Two pounds of zucchini may seem like a lot, but Neapolitans often prepare more than that. (Jeanne Carolà Francesconi in La Cucina Napoletana says that zucchine alla scapece is “supremely appetizing” and that to describe the dish “the lyricism of a poet would not be too much.” I don’t go that far.)

2 pounds (1 kilo) zucchini, sliced about 3/8 inch (1 cm) thick

excellent, fresh-tasting olive oil

salt and black pepper

2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped

4 fresh spearmint leaves, finely chopped

½ cup (125 ml) white-wine vinegar

Fry the zucchini in batches in the oil until it is golden on both sides, draining the slices on paper towels. Then layer them on a platter, topping each layer with salt and pepper, garlic, mint, and vinegar. Cover, refrigerate, and wait, preferably, 24 hours before eating. Serve cold or tepid. Mix at the table just before serving. Serves 4.

From issue 104