R E C I P E S

Stewed Rhubarb with Honey

By Edward Behr

Along with asparagus, morels, and a few other items, rhubarb is one of the ritual foods of spring. The old-farm rhubarb plants I’ve known in northern New England are green stemmed and much more acidic than the modern red-stemmed varieties, which are also more flavorful. When cooking rhubarb, pay careful attention and take it from the heat before the pieces melt entirely into sauce. There’s no noticeable loss in flavor, but the texture is less interesting. Because rhubarb’s acidity varies, you have to sweeten it to taste. Here, so as not to diminish the flavor of fine honey with heat, add it only when the rhubarb is nearly cool. The honey shouldn’t be strong; to stick to the seasonal theme, it could be a spring honey.

 

2 pounds (1 kilo) rhubarb stalks, washed and trimmed of bases and leaves

½ cup (100 gr) sugar

light-flavored honey

 

Cut the rhubarb into easy-to-eat pieces, and sprinkle the sugar over them to draw out moisture so the rhubarb won’t burn as the cooking starts. Wait at least 45 minutes, then cook the rhubarb slowly, uncovered, starting with low heat and then switching to medium, stirring once or twice, until the pieces of stalk are soft but not quite falling apart, maybe 10 minutes. Cool the rhubarb until it is merely warm to the touch. Sweeten to taste with honey, starting with ¼ cup (85 gr). Serves 6 to 8.

From The Art of Eating Cookbook