R E C I P E S

Steamed New Potatoes

By Edward Behr

New potatoes are ready, and best, when the plants blossom in early summer. Even floury varieties have an appealing waxy tenderness then, and I especially like the creamy texture and strong potato taste of certain less-common old varieties, such as La Ratte and Irish Cobbler. Some soils and climates produce a much more potatoey flavor than others, noticeable in new potatoes. You may say that the instructions below are hardly a recipe at all, just steaming. But when potatoes are truly new and freshly dug, they benefit from a degree of care that may rise to the level of a recipe.

 

3 pounds (1.5 kg) new potatoes

salt

2 tablespoons (25 gr) unsalted butter

chives

 

Very small new potatoes, in the range of an inch (2.5 cm) across, should be carefully washed and left whole and unpeeled. Larger new potatoes are better peeled and cut into roughly ¾-inch (2-cm) pieces. Steam the potatoes on a rack over boiling water, covered, until they are just tender, about 20 minutes. When they are just done — no softer than that, as they quickly become waterlogged and fall apart — remove the rack from the pot, pour off the water, and return the potatoes to the pot.

Then, over very low heat, season them promptly and carefully with salt; add butter and swirl to make an emulsion with any remaining water. Bunch the chives and slice them with a sharp knife to make fine, tiny rings — cut them at the last minute, so the taste is perfectly fresh. Mix in some of the chives, and once the potatoes are in their serving dish, sprinkle more chives over. Serves 6 to 8.


From The Art of Eating Cookbook

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