Asia

Kerala Beef Fry (Erachi Ularthiyathu)
In this traditional Syrian Christian recipe from the South Indian state Kerala, beef is massaged with vinegar and chile, turmeric, coriander, fennel and...
Murgh Malai Kababs with Dhaniya-Pudina Chutney
The kababs are more common in the northern parts of India. So in that sense this is not a typical dish from ...
Chicken Rizala
Chicken Rizala, in its base masala uses a modest five ingredients: ginger, garlic, green chile, coriander powder, and turmeric ...
Bhopali Pasande
Though garam masalas vary significantly according to region, this Bhopali version will serve perfectly well for most North Indian ...

Bread & Pastry

Making Your Own Rye Bread
James MacGuire • The Rye Flour ...
Popovers
A good American popover, a form of muffin, is nearly exploded by strong oven heat...
Pescajounes
A pescajoune is a pancake, typically lightened by beaten egg whites and, in perhaps its oldest form, made ...
Yorkshire Pudding
In the days of roasting before a fire, Yorkshire pudding was cooked on the hearth, in a pan placed beneath the meat to catch the...
Puff Pastry Recipe
Well-made, it’s the lightest of pastries: crisp thin leaves of buttery richness with brown wheaty flavors from the golden surface, each ...
Flatbread
This dough is useful for various European flatbreads that once were, and in some cases still are, baked directly on the hearth of a fireplace...
Sour West Virginia Buckwheat Cakes
This recipe makes fairly mild but flavorful cakes. You can control the level of sourness, which is most notable when the starter ...
Schiacciata
Schiacciata, which literally means “flattened” or “squashed,” is a kind of focaccia. Even in places where the dominant bread was big and round...
Farinata
Once a common street food, farinata is a vast chickpea pancake, soft and floppy, baked in special heavy copper pans about a yard wide...
Mary Randolph’s Corn Bread
Mary Randolph published this recipe in her fine cookbook The Virginia Housewife, in 1824, before chemical baking powders transformed...
Anchoïade
This variable Provençal mixture for toasted or grilled slices of bread differs from the Piedmontese bagna cauda used for dipping raw vegetables...

Cheese

Fondue Franche-Comtoise
Fondue requires the standard equipment: an enameled cast-iron or glazed ceramic pot to set over a flame, a stand to hold it with a burner...
How to Make Your Own Fresh Cheese
Just-made cheese is primordial food, and yet — at least in North America — few people have tasted it; they don’t know the delicate texture...
Gougère
The savory gougère, its crunchy outside contrasting with the tender inside, is made in various parts of France but associated especially with Burgundy...
Focaccia col Formaggio di Recco
The Ligurian seaside resort town of Recco specializes in this cheese focaccia, which, unlike the usual kind, contains no yeast...
Crémets d’Anjou
The French region of Anjou is known for its market gardens and river fish, and yet three of the province’s most emblematic foods are full...
Cheese Soufflé with Tomato Sauce
I use flavorful Gruyère or strong Cheddar in this soufflé, though other cheeses can also be good. I’ve always found soufflés easy to make, which...
Cheese Fritters
These fritters are essentially a fried version of gougères. The dough for these...
Cervelle de Canut
Cervelle de canut, “brain of a silk worker,” is an essential Lyonnais food, named for the city’s silk weavers, whose number peaked in...
Welsh Rabbit
Traditional Welsh rabbit contains very few ingredients, and certainly no flour or egg that would make the sauce hold together more securely...

Fish, Seafood, & Snails

Fish Quenelles
Along France’s many rivers, forcemeats are a way to deal with impossibly bony fish, like pike. You see this not only in the airy and...
Fish Pâté
The main ingredient in a fish pâté is the farce mousseline, a delicate creamy purée of raw fish, which is also a major component of...
Fish Mousselines
Delicate mousseline forcemeats, which are closely related to quenelles and fish pâtés but without the starch of the panade, can be...
Crayfish or Lobster Coulis for Quenelles
The classic French crayfish sauce, sauce Nantua, a frequent companion to quenelles, is a béchamel finished with crayfish butter and cream...
Cioppino
A San Francisco classic, cioppino was likely brought to the Bay Area by Italian immigrants in the late 19th century...
Down East Fish Chowder
Fish chowder tastes best if you start with a whole haddock, weighing about four pounds, so you can make a fish broth or court bouillon...
Peperoni Ripieni con Tonno
The forerunner of this antipasto from Piedmont in Italy was probably peppers with anchovy sauce; both are still made and are excellent...
Fennel Sauce
English fennel sauce, for salmon and other fish, is based on English butter sauce, and since this version omits the usual flour, it’s really...
Sardele in Saor
Venetian sardele in saor is a typical summer dish, eaten either as a cicheto, a snack, or as a main course...
Escabetx de Verats
This recipe is Catalan, but around the Mediterranean, the method is an old one for preserving fish briefly when they are cheap, abundant...
Deep-Fried Oysters
Beer batter is classical French. In some older versions the beer is intended as leavening and the batter is set in a warm place to...
Salt Cod Cakes
These fried salt cod cakes would fit into the cooking of various parts of the world, though the recipe happens to come from New England...
Cod with Tomato, Hyssop, and Tarragon
For this, you need fresh hyssop, a perennial herb with spikes of fine, small, edible blue-purple flowers, which are good in a salad...
Marinated Tuna in Olive Oil
The predecessor of canned tuna in oil, a 19th-century innovation that at its best is extremely good, was tuna cooked with a large amount...
Pike, Pike-Perch, or Salmon with Beurre Blanc
Beurre blanc, the famous Loire Valley sauce typically served with poached fish, especially brochet (pike), sandre (pike-perch), and salmon, is made ...
Potage Billy By
According to the 1962 cookbook Chez Maxim’s: Secrets and Recipes from the World’s Most Famous Restaurant...
Moules à la Marinière
There’s no better way to cook extremely fresh mussels than à la marinière, which is simply mussels steamed open in white wine...
Maryland Crab Soup
Closely related to this Maryland crab soup is Charleston’s she-crab soup, prepared in winter when the female crabs are filled with roe...
Saucisses au Vin Blanc
These slightly peppery saucisses au vin blanc go very well with raw oysters, providing a contrast not only of flavor but of cold with hot...
Pesce Spada alla Stemperata
Alla stemperata is a full-flavored Sicilian way to prepare swordfish or tuna (and sometimes rabbit or hare)...
Anchoïade
This variable Provençal mixture for toasted or grilled slices of bread differs from the Piedmontese bagna cauda used for dipping raw vegetables...
Chard Stalks with Anchovy
With this recipe, the bland, fleshy stalks of chard are boosted by a very savory sauce that, depending on your expectations when...

France

Petits Pots de Crème au Chocolat
Petits pots de crème present good chocolate in a particularly luscious form. Whether you prefer 60 percent, 70 percent, or a higher percentage chocolate...
Fish Quenelles
Along France’s many rivers, forcemeats are a way to deal with impossibly bony fish, like pike. You see this not only in the airy and...
Fish Pâté
The main ingredient in a fish pâté is the farce mousseline, a delicate creamy purée of raw fish, which is also a major component of...
Fish Mousselines
Delicate mousseline forcemeats, which are closely related to quenelles and fish pâtés but without the starch of the panade, can be...
Crayfish or Lobster Coulis for Quenelles
The classic French crayfish sauce, sauce Nantua, a frequent companion to quenelles, is a béchamel finished with crayfish butter and cream...
Clafoutis
The best clafoutis, the cherry-filled flan from the French region of Limousin, is powerfully, directly inflated ...
Pescajounes
A pescajoune is a pancake, typically lightened by beaten egg whites and, in perhaps its oldest form, made ...
Rognons de Veau à la Moutarde
Sautéed veal kidneys in mustard sauce is one of the most typical old Paris bistro plates...
Oxtail Stew
The rich flavor of pot-au-feu à la queue de bœuf recalls that of brasato al Barolo ...
Navarin Printanier
A navarin, though the original calls for mutton, is excellent with flavorful lamb. The name refers to navets...
Jambon à la Crème
Burgundy’s jambon à la crème and jambon au Chablis are closely allied to its saupiquet. Each consists of slices of ham, fried (originally in lard)...
Grillade des Mariniers du Rhône
The Rhone River boatmen have disappeared, but they leave behind a reputation for certain dishes, including matelotes (red-wine-and-onion fish stews) and...
Choucroute Garnie à l’Alsacienne
Choucroute garnie, a cool-weather dish from Alsace, varies from place to place and cook to cook...
Sauce Piquante
There’s more than one version of this French sauce, which goes especially well with roasted or grilled pork but also with boiled or roasted lamb...
Porc aux Pruneaux
This recipe is based on the dish as I saw it made in 1980 at the former bistro La Marmite in Tours...
Pigeonneaux aux Olives
The flavor of this dish, associated with the South of France, depends heavily on the olives, so be sure to taste before you buy...
Canard aux Cerises
This old French dish is a counterpart to duck à l’orange and, like it, is often made cloyingly sweet...
Baeckeoffe
The name of this Alsatian stew means “bake oven”; the dish used to be assembled at home...
Gâteaux de Foies de Volaille
These Lyonnais “cakes” are actually flans whose custard is typically thickened with béchamel or bread soaked in milk and then lightened with...
Coq au Vin
Coq au vin, a variable dish, appears in much of France and under various names. In Alsace, it’s coq au riesling with cream and mushrooms...
Red Wine Sauce
The distinction between this, also known as sauce bordelaise, and its red-wine counterpart in Burgundy was that the latter was made with wine...
Veal Glaze
There’s nothing difficult about making brown veal stock and reducing it to a glaze, but it takes hours, and so it’s best to make large...
Deep-Fried Oysters
Beer batter is classical French. In some older versions the beer is intended as leavening and the batter is set in a warm place to...
Marinated Tuna in Olive Oil
The predecessor of canned tuna in oil, a 19th-century innovation that at its best is extremely good, was tuna cooked with a large amount...
Pommes de Terre Macaire
These fried cakes, oddly named for a malicious 19th-century stage character, are especially good with grilled lean meat...
Gratin Dauphinois
These potatoes are so good, such a superior partner to roast lamb or beef, that they may be the only vegetable...
Chouée
Chouée is it’s always very popular and almost impossible to make badly. It’s just boiled cabbage mashed with butter and, optionally, boiled potatoes...
Asperges, Sauce Maltaise
The beginning of asparagus season happily overlaps the end of citrus season. Traditionally, the sole purpose of sauce maltaise (hollandaise with fresh blood-orange juice)...
Scrambled Eggs with Asparagus
These are French-style œufs brouillés, cooked slowly with constant stirring to achieve the sensual consistency of smooth custard with only a few soft ...
Salade Frisée
Standard French bistro fare includes an often-substantial first-course salad based on chicorée frisée, curly chicory, also known...
Beet Salad with Anchovies
This salad appears in the bilingual Vieilles Recettes de Cuisine Provençale, or Vieii Receto de Cousino Prouvençalo, by C. Chanot-Bullier, about the food ...
Fondue Franche-Comtoise
Fondue requires the standard equipment: an enameled cast-iron or glazed ceramic pot to set over a flame, a stand to hold it with a burner...
How to Make Your Own Fresh Cheese
Just-made cheese is primordial food, and yet — at least in North America — few people have tasted it; they don’t know the delicate texture...
Gougère
The savory gougère, its crunchy outside contrasting with the tender inside, is made in various parts of France but associated especially with Burgundy...
Crémets d’Anjou
The French region of Anjou is known for its market gardens and river fish, and yet three of the province’s most emblematic foods are full...
Cheese Soufflé with Tomato Sauce
I use flavorful Gruyère or strong Cheddar in this soufflé, though other cheeses can also be good. I’ve always found soufflés easy to make, which...
Cervelle de Canut
Cervelle de canut, “brain of a silk worker,” is an essential Lyonnais food, named for the city’s silk weavers, whose number peaked in...
Pierre Hermé’s Cannelés
Here's the recipe of Pierre Hermé, the Paris pâtissier...
Soupe aux Cerises
This cherry soup from the Franche-Comté in eastern France is not, as it may sound, a dessert, but a first course...
Soupe à l’Oignon
Some of the most richly flavored soups of all are onion. Some are purposefully pale, but deep flavor comes from ...
Purée de Petits Pois
Soups of fresh, sweet green peas, cooked nearly like petits pois à la laitue but puréed and called purées, are very Parisian...
Potée Jurassienne
A potée is a country dish of vegetables, especially cabbage and potatoes, with sausage or another form of cured pork, and often...
Soupe de Châtaignes
Once, wherever chestnut trees grew, the nuts were important food for the poor, and yet their taste is luxurious...
Potage Billy By
According to the 1962 cookbook Chez Maxim’s: Secrets and Recipes from the World’s Most Famous Restaurant...
Moules à la Marinière
There’s no better way to cook extremely fresh mussels than à la marinière, which is simply mussels steamed open in white wine...
Escargots à la Bourguignonne
Other good things can be done with snails, but none is more pleasing in its simplicity and jolt of flavor than classic snails in garlic...
Crème Caramel Renversée
The velvety texture of a well-made crème caramel comes from careful cooking that leaves the custard free of bubbles...
Soupe aux Choux à l’Huile de Noix
A quick cabbage soup usually gets much of its flavor from cured pork, such as smoked sausage...
Jambon Persillé
Originally an Easter dish, this is Burgundy’s favorite and best-known charcuterie item, and it’s still popular at Easter, when it contains...
Fromage de Tête
Like so much other charcuterie, the varied forms of headcheese surely originate in the need to make quick use of spare parts ...
Cervelas Lyonnais
The cervelas lyonnais is a wide sausage of succulence and delicacy (although somewhat changed by EU rules eliminating saltpeter)...
A Brine for Small Items
First a word about the cut of pork called in France échine, which must be the least known cut of any pig — and yet...
Tapenade
The world has seen plenty of tapenade, but maybe it hasn’t been said often enough that tapeno in Provençal means “caper,” and that...
Saucisses de Toulouse
When you make your own fresh sausage, you control the quality of the meat, the grind, the proportion of fat and all the rest...
Saucisses au Vin Blanc
These slightly peppery saucisses au vin blanc go very well with raw oysters, providing a contrast not only of flavor but of cold with hot...
Rillauds d’Anjou, or Rillons de Touraine
The rillauds of Anjou, just like the rillons of Touraine, are large cubes of pork belly, salted briefly and then slowly cooked by themselves until...
Pâté de Campagne
This recipe for a pâté de campagne in the manner of the Chalosse area of the department of the Landes in southwest France comes...
Mousse de Foies
The usual commercial mousse de foies, like related preparations of foie gras, cuts corners and is a way to use bits of perhaps inferior...
Anchoïade
This variable Provençal mixture for toasted or grilled slices of bread differs from the Piedmontese bagna cauda used for dipping raw vegetables...
Chicken Roasted in Butter with Sauternes Sauce
Consider “roasting” a chicken (or pheasant) in butter in a covered pot on top of the stove...

Fruit & Nuts

Prunes in Red Wine for Roquefort
To be more or less regionally consistent, the prunes for this cold-weather combination would come from Agen, which, like the village of Roquefort,...
Stewed Rhubarb with Honey
Along with asparagus, morels, and a few other items, rhubarb is one of the ritual foods of spring. The old-farm rhubarb plants I’ve known in...
Clafoutis
The best clafoutis, the cherry-filled flan from the French region of Limousin, is powerfully, directly inflated ...
Pescajounes
A pescajoune is a pancake, typically lightened by beaten egg whites and, in perhaps its oldest form, made ...
Walnut Tart
The idea is a thin tart, not too sweet, with a high proportion of crust, the soft crunch of nuts contrasting with the honey-egg binding...
Unsweetened Apple Pie with Maple Sauce
This appears in Vermont Maple Recipes by Mary Pearl, a spiral-bound book that was apparently self-published, in 1952...
Torta di Nocciole
Unlike most versions of the classic Piedmontese hazelnut cake, this one is made without flour and is leavened solely by beaten egg whites...
Ciliegie al Barolo
The name is evocative but misleading: good Barolo costs too much for anyone to cook with a whole bottle of it. Instead...
Porc aux Pruneaux
This recipe is based on the dish as I saw it made in 1980 at the former bistro La Marmite in Tours...
Canard aux Cerises
This old French dish is a counterpart to duck à l’orange and, like it, is often made cloyingly sweet...
Lapin aux Pruneaux
Rabbit is cooked with prunes in southwest France as well as in the north, where the dish is sometimes called à la flamande...
Lapin à la Kriek
This modern Belgian summer dish combines elements of the carbonade à la gueuze and of rabbit with prunes. Here the fruit is cherries...
Insalata di Arance
Orange salads, which can open or close a meal, are typical of both Sicily and Spain. The oranges should be slightly tart, to play...
Soupe aux Cerises
This cherry soup from the Franche-Comté in eastern France is not, as it may sound, a dessert, but a first course...
Soupe de Châtaignes
Once, wherever chestnut trees grew, the nuts were important food for the poor, and yet their taste is luxurious...
La Tarte à la Raisinée
This markedly flavorful and delicious tart mixes cream with raisinée and egg to make a form of flan. Raisinée is sweet apple or pear juice...
Freshly Roasted Cashews
Freshly roasted cashews (barely colored, just cooled) combine that very soft crunch, exceptional among nuts, with a distinctly buttery and faintly almond...
Pears Poached in Red Wine
The sweet-acid balance of this combination depends on the particular pears and wine; you could reserve a little of the sugar and taste and adjust...

Italy

Torta di Nocciole
Unlike most versions of the classic Piedmontese hazelnut cake, this one is made without flour and is leavened solely by beaten egg whites...
Ciliegie al Barolo
The name is evocative but misleading: good Barolo costs too much for anyone to cook with a whole bottle of it. Instead...
Vitello Tonnato
Usually today, vitello tonnato takes the form of dry slices of veal accompanied by a tuna mayonnaise. The original...
Uccelletti Scappati
The methods for Italian scallopini recipes are not at all fixed — some recipes for saltimbocca are identical to some for uccelletti scappati...
Scallopini al Vino Bianco o al Limone
If veal scallops are floured before cooking, they’re more tender, although also more bland, since the flour prevents the meat and juices ...
Saltimbocca
The various northern Italian recipes for rolled-up thin slices of veal form a loose group, including uccelletti scappati (birds that have flown)...
Fegato alla Veneziana
Figà a la ​v​enexiana ​(to use the ​Venetian rather than the ​Italian ​name) - liver and onions sparked with lemon, wine, or vinegar...
Cinghiale colle Castagne
Maria Piera Querio, chef of the Locanda dell’Arco in the Alta Langa village of Cissone, in Piedmont, gave me this recipe...
Polpette di Carne
Meatballs, polpette, are made all over Italy, commonly with additions such as garlic, parsley, grating cheese, and forms of cured pork...
Wild Mushroom Ragù
Signora Antolini’s wild mushroom ragù is a recipe I come back to over and over again, especially in wintertime...
Peperoni Ripieni con Tonno
The forerunner of this antipasto from Piedmont in Italy was probably peppers with anchovy sauce; both are still made and are excellent...
Sardele in Saor
Venetian sardele in saor is a typical summer dish, eaten either as a cicheto, a snack, or as a main course...
Marinated Tuna in Olive Oil
The predecessor of canned tuna in oil, a 19th-century innovation that at its best is extremely good, was tuna cooked with a large amount...
Zucca all’Agrodolce
Sicilian zucca all’ agrodolce is also called fegato di Settecannoli (or ficatu ri sette cannoli in Sicilian) — liver from Settecannoli...
Cipolline in Agrodolce
The combination of sweet and sour isn’t common in Italian cooking, but it’s essential to certain preparations, and I’m fascinated by it...
Insalata di Arance
Orange salads, which can open or close a meal, are typical of both Sicily and Spain. The oranges should be slightly tart, to play...
Pepper and Potato Frittata
The combination may sound boring, but it isn’t. I learned it from Lucy DiNapoli, whose mother came from Catania, Sicily...
Salsa di Noci
Close kin to the familiar basil pesto, salsa di noci also comes from the Italian Riviera and was originally always made in a mortar...
Ragù Bolognese
Even around Bologna, basic ragù has infinite variations: this is one. The historic region of Emilia, of which Bologna is the largest city...
Puccia
Puccia, from Piedmont in northern Italy, is in origin a poor person’s one-dish meal. Eat it hot in soup plates, or chill it in an...
Pici
Tuscan food is straightforward, rustic, and frugal. In contrast with most northern Italian pasta, in which egg is mixed with soft wheat flour (not durum)...
Focaccia col Formaggio di Recco
The Ligurian seaside resort town of Recco specializes in this cheese focaccia, which, unlike the usual kind, contains no yeast...
Pesto Trapanese
Other pasta sauces are as good, but none is better. This creamy pesto from the city of Trapani in westernmost Sicily is partly like...
Schiacciata
Schiacciata, which literally means “flattened” or “squashed,” is a kind of focaccia. Even in places where the dominant bread was big and round...
Pesce Spada alla Stemperata
Alla stemperata is a full-flavored Sicilian way to prepare swordfish or tuna (and sometimes rabbit or hare)...
Farinata
Once a common street food, farinata is a vast chickpea pancake, soft and floppy, baked in special heavy copper pans about a yard wide...
Caponata
This Sicilian accompaniment to bread is a way to preserve eggplants. Its elaborate taste recalls the Arab influence on the island’s cooking...
Capers in Olive Oil
Capers are flower buds, and those preserved in dry salt have the strongest, clearest floral taste; they’re far better than capers in vinegar...
Zabaione
To the 16th-century Italian chef Bartolomeo Scappi, “zambaglione” was an egg yolk–wine mixture cooked over water to the consistency of “a thick broth”...

Meat (Pork, Lamb, Beef...)

Yorkshire Pudding
In the days of roasting before a fire, Yorkshire pudding was cooked on the hearth, in a pan placed beneath the meat to catch the...
Vitello Tonnato
Usually today, vitello tonnato takes the form of dry slices of veal accompanied by a tuna mayonnaise. The original...
Uccelletti Scappati
The methods for Italian scallopini recipes are not at all fixed — some recipes for saltimbocca are identical to some for uccelletti scappati...
Scallopini al Vino Bianco o al Limone
If veal scallops are floured before cooking, they’re more tender, although also more bland, since the flour prevents the meat and juices ...
Saltimbocca
The various northern Italian recipes for rolled-up thin slices of veal form a loose group, including uccelletti scappati (birds that have flown)...
Rognons de Veau à la Moutarde
Sautéed veal kidneys in mustard sauce is one of the most typical old Paris bistro plates...
Oxtail Stew
The rich flavor of pot-au-feu à la queue de bœuf recalls that of brasato al Barolo ...
Navarin Printanier
A navarin, though the original calls for mutton, is excellent with flavorful lamb. The name refers to navets...
Jambon à la Crème
Burgundy’s jambon à la crème and jambon au Chablis are closely allied to its saupiquet. Each consists of slices of ham, fried (originally in lard)...
Grillade des Mariniers du Rhône
The Rhone River boatmen have disappeared, but they leave behind a reputation for certain dishes, including matelotes (red-wine-and-onion fish stews) and...
Fegato alla Veneziana
Figà a la ​v​enexiana ​(to use the ​Venetian rather than the ​Italian ​name) - liver and onions sparked with lemon, wine, or vinegar...
Cinghiale colle Castagne
Maria Piera Querio, chef of the Locanda dell’Arco in the Alta Langa village of Cissone, in Piedmont, gave me this recipe...
Choucroute Garnie à l’Alsacienne
Choucroute garnie, a cool-weather dish from Alsace, varies from place to place and cook to cook...
Sauce Piquante
There’s more than one version of this French sauce, which goes especially well with roasted or grilled pork but also with boiled or roasted lamb...
Porc aux Pruneaux
This recipe is based on the dish as I saw it made in 1980 at the former bistro La Marmite in Tours...
Polpette di Carne
Meatballs, polpette, are made all over Italy, commonly with additions such as garlic, parsley, grating cheese, and forms of cured pork...
Baeckeoffe
The name of this Alsatian stew means “bake oven”; the dish used to be assembled at home...
Wild Mushroom Ragù
Signora Antolini’s wild mushroom ragù is a recipe I come back to over and over again, especially in wintertime...
Carbonade à la Gueuze (Beef Braised in Tart Belgian Beer)
Gueuze is a younger, effervescent form of lambic, the otherwise flat Belgian beer brewed with wild yeast, which gives distinctive flavors...
Bhopali Pasande
Though garam masalas vary significantly according to region, this Bhopali version will serve perfectly well for most North Indian ...
Ragù Bolognese
Even around Bologna, basic ragù has infinite variations: this is one. The historic region of Emilia, of which Bologna is the largest city...
Potée Jurassienne
A potée is a country dish of vegetables, especially cabbage and potatoes, with sausage or another form of cured pork, and often...
Cajun Chicken, Sausage, and Oyster Gumbo
The depth of flavor in slowly cooked Cajun dishes comes partly from a Cajun brown roux, which is cooked very dark, almost burnt, so that...
Olga Rendek’s Gulyas
Contact with hot fat is necessary to release paprika’s pigment, but its natural sugar means this must be done quickly and carefully to avoid burning...
Jambon Persillé
Originally an Easter dish, this is Burgundy’s favorite and best-known charcuterie item, and it’s still popular at Easter, when it contains...
Fromage de Tête
Like so much other charcuterie, the varied forms of headcheese surely originate in the need to make quick use of spare parts ...
Cervelas Lyonnais
The cervelas lyonnais is a wide sausage of succulence and delicacy (although somewhat changed by EU rules eliminating saltpeter)...
A Brine for Small Items
First a word about the cut of pork called in France échine, which must be the least known cut of any pig — and yet...
Saucisses de Toulouse
When you make your own fresh sausage, you control the quality of the meat, the grind, the proportion of fat and all the rest...
Saucisses au Vin Blanc
These slightly peppery saucisses au vin blanc go very well with raw oysters, providing a contrast not only of flavor but of cold with hot...
Rillauds d’Anjou, or Rillons de Touraine
The rillauds of Anjou, just like the rillons of Touraine, are large cubes of pork belly, salted briefly and then slowly cooked by themselves until...
Pâté de Campagne
This recipe for a pâté de campagne in the manner of the Chalosse area of the department of the Landes in southwest France comes...
Rillettes de Tours
The notion that charcutiers use rillettes to rescue the bits of meat that stubbornly cling to pork bones was dispelled for me years ago...
Pièce de Bœuf, Aubergine Brûlée
This recipe, more conservative than many of the combinations at Iñaki Aizpitarte’s praised Paris restaurant, presents something that’s...

Soups and Stews

Cioppino
A San Francisco classic, cioppino was likely brought to the Bay Area by Italian immigrants in the late 19th century...
Down East Fish Chowder
Fish chowder tastes best if you start with a whole haddock, weighing about four pounds, so you can make a fish broth or court bouillon...
Parsnip Stew
This stew will remind you of chowder. In fact, in form it is a chowder, and if you have a favorite way to make chowder,...
Winter Squash Soup with Vin Jaune
I’ve lost track of the origins of this soup, which might have been my own innovation. It uses vin jaune, the unusual, very dry white...
Soupe aux Cerises
This cherry soup from the Franche-Comté in eastern France is not, as it may sound, a dessert, but a first course...
Soupe à l’Oignon
Some of the most richly flavored soups of all are onion. Some are purposefully pale, but deep flavor comes from ...
Purée de Petits Pois
Soups of fresh, sweet green peas, cooked nearly like petits pois à la laitue but puréed and called purées, are very Parisian...
Potée Jurassienne
A potée is a country dish of vegetables, especially cabbage and potatoes, with sausage or another form of cured pork, and often...
Cajun Chicken, Sausage, and Oyster Gumbo
The depth of flavor in slowly cooked Cajun dishes comes partly from a Cajun brown roux, which is cooked very dark, almost burnt, so that...
Bread and Zucchini Soup
This summer soup is adapted from the cookbook La Cucina del Piemonte by Giovanni Goria, published in 1990, where it is given the dialect name...
Soupe de Châtaignes
Once, wherever chestnut trees grew, the nuts were important food for the poor, and yet their taste is luxurious...
Potage Billy By
According to the 1962 cookbook Chez Maxim’s: Secrets and Recipes from the World’s Most Famous Restaurant...
Maryland Crab Soup
Closely related to this Maryland crab soup is Charleston’s she-crab soup, prepared in winter when the female crabs are filled with roe...
Soupe aux Choux à l’Huile de Noix
A quick cabbage soup usually gets much of its flavor from cured pork, such as smoked sausage...
Carrot Soup
This basic soup relies for thickening only on the puréed carrots themselves. Like so many other vegetables, the carrots in regular supermarkets...
Carrot and Tomato Soup
Homage to the late-summer vegetable garden, the combination of carrot and tomato is excellent, with sweetness coming from one ...
Asparagus Soup
Unless you have perfectly fresh asparagus, peel it to bring the taste closer to just-picked. I prefer that a soup have its own inherent consistency...

Spain

Escabetx de Verats
This recipe is Catalan, but around the Mediterranean, the method is an old one for preserving fish briefly when they are cheap, abundant...
Calçots amb Romesco
Calçots, which originated in the town of Valls in Catalonia, Spain, are a particular kind of onion, hilled up as they grow to have a...

Sweet

Caramel Tart
The aromas of caramel and buttery crust are so complementary that as this tart bakes you smell them as one. Success depends ...
Sugary Crust
Between the two sorts of nonflaky crusts, sablée and sucrée, a sandy one seems to me pointless, crumbly rather than satisfyingly crunchy...
Flaky Crust
Essential for tender flakiness is mixing the dough only as much as needed and keeping it cool as you work, placing the dough in the...
Coffee Ice
The success of this ice naturally depends on the beans, the roast, and the brewing, and it’s hard to make any comment on those without...
Honey Ice Cream
In making ice cream, honey isn’t cooked, so it retains all its fine flavor — assuming the beekeeper or honey processor didn’t heat it to...
Petits Pots de Crème au Chocolat
Petits pots de crème present good chocolate in a particularly luscious form. Whether you prefer 60 percent, 70 percent, or a higher percentage chocolate...
Stewed Rhubarb with Honey
Along with asparagus, morels, and a few other items, rhubarb is one of the ritual foods of spring. The old-farm rhubarb plants I’ve known in...
Clafoutis
The best clafoutis, the cherry-filled flan from the French region of Limousin, is powerfully, directly inflated ...
Pescajounes
A pescajoune is a pancake, typically lightened by beaten egg whites and, in perhaps its oldest form, made ...
Brioche Plum Tart
Brioche is less messy and difficult to make than many people think: it is perhaps the form of bread that is easiest for a home...
Pear Tart
A little Cognac underlines the pear taste of plain cooked pears. Among common varieties, I prefer Comice or Bartlett ...
Melon Ice
The most refreshing ice, and the easiest to eat, is slushy firm. I like a texture that is not just slightly loose but also grainy...
Little Corn Cakes
Cornmeal sweets appear in, among other places, the Basque country of France and Spain and the Piedmont and Veneto of Italy...
Lemon-Honey Flan
Honey complements lemon. I use a light-flavored honey for this flan, but you may prefer a strong floral honey, such as lavender or ...
Walnut Tart
The idea is a thin tart, not too sweet, with a high proportion of crust, the soft crunch of nuts contrasting with the honey-egg binding...
Unsweetened Apple Pie with Maple Sauce
This appears in Vermont Maple Recipes by Mary Pearl, a spiral-bound book that was apparently self-published, in 1952...
Torta di Nocciole
Unlike most versions of the classic Piedmontese hazelnut cake, this one is made without flour and is leavened solely by beaten egg whites...
Pound Cake
I’m ambivalent about cake. French génoise, a cake with substantial texture meant to withstand being soaked with flavored sugar syrup...
Coffee Tart
The success of this tart depends in part on the contrast in texture of the coffee custard and the flaky crust...
Ciliegie al Barolo
The name is evocative but misleading: good Barolo costs too much for anyone to cook with a whole bottle of it. Instead...
Chocolate Tart
Like chocolate in general, this goes very well with a glass of Banyuls or Maury wine...
Chocolate Soufflé
A chocolate soufflé can taste monotonously chocolatey, unless you take care to give it a luscious texture and add a sauce...
Chocolate Mousse
A mousse is not one of the most chocolatey desserts, because of the foam. That can come from whipped sweet cream, whipped crème fraîche...
Chocolate Brioche Tart
The dough is essentially Escoffier’s and is much easier to make than you might imagine...
Pierre Hermé’s Cannelés
Here's the recipe of Pierre Hermé, the Paris pâtissier...
Crème Caramel Renversée
The velvety texture of a well-made crème caramel comes from careful cooking that leaves the custard free of bubbles...
La Tarte à la Raisinée
This markedly flavorful and delicious tart mixes cream with raisinée and egg to make a form of flan. Raisinée is sweet apple or pear juice...
Pears Poached in Red Wine
The sweet-acid balance of this combination depends on the particular pears and wine; you could reserve a little of the sugar and taste and adjust...
Christine Ferber’s Hot Chocolate
Once on a winter day I visited the talented Christine Ferber, master of all things sweet, in her workshop in the Alsatian village of Niedermorschwihr...
Zabaione
To the 16th-century Italian chef Bartolomeo Scappi, “zambaglione” was an egg yolk–wine mixture cooked over water to the consistency of “a thick broth”...
Rose Ice
A perfect but crazy dessert for the height of rose season. You need highly scented roses — lots and lots of them...

Vegetables & Fungi

Wild Mushroom Ragù
Signora Antolini’s wild mushroom ragù is a recipe I come back to over and over again, especially in wintertime...
Brussels Sprouts with Marsala and Horseradish Cream Sauce
This is mostly about the sauce. You may wish to cut the sprouts in half to allow the sauce to seep into the layers...
Parsnip Stew
This stew will remind you of chowder. In fact, in form it is a chowder, and if you have a favorite way to make chowder,...
Peperoni Ripieni con Tonno
The forerunner of this antipasto from Piedmont in Italy was probably peppers with anchovy sauce; both are still made and are excellent...
Zucca all’Agrodolce
Sicilian zucca all’ agrodolce is also called fegato di Settecannoli (or ficatu ri sette cannoli in Sicilian) — liver from Settecannoli...
Zucchini Pudding
This zucchini pudding, a complement to grilled meats, combines two elements from Richard Olney’s essential Simple French Food...
Cipolline in Agrodolce
The combination of sweet and sour isn’t common in Italian cooking, but it’s essential to certain preparations, and I’m fascinated by it...
Celery Root and Potato Purée
Celery root, or celeriac, with its strong flavor, is often mixed with potato in a white purée, which goes well with meats, especially...
Steamed New Potatoes
RECIPES Steamed New Potatoes By Edward Behr New potatoes are ready, and best, when the plants blossom in early summer. Even floury varieties have an...
Pommes de Terre Macaire
These fried cakes, oddly named for a malicious 19th-century stage character, are especially good with grilled lean meat...
Gratin Dauphinois
These potatoes are so good, such a superior partner to roast lamb or beef, that they may be the only vegetable...
Eggplant and Tomato
RECIPES Eggplant and Tomato (Marius Morard’s Classic Recipe for Eggplant and Tomato) By Edward Behr The simple combination of eggplant and tomato excludes the squash...
Chouée
Chouée is it’s always very popular and almost impossible to make badly. It’s just boiled cabbage mashed with butter and, optionally, boiled potatoes...
Asperges, Sauce Maltaise
The beginning of asparagus season happily overlaps the end of citrus season. Traditionally, the sole purpose of sauce maltaise (hollandaise with fresh blood-orange juice)...
Scrambled Eggs with Asparagus
These are French-style œufs brouillés, cooked slowly with constant stirring to achieve the sensual consistency of smooth custard with only a few soft ...
Beet Salad with Anchovies
This salad appears in the bilingual Vieilles Recettes de Cuisine Provençale, or Vieii Receto de Cousino Prouvençalo, by C. Chanot-Bullier, about the food ...
Pepper and Potato Frittata
The combination may sound boring, but it isn’t. I learned it from Lucy DiNapoli, whose mother came from Catania, Sicily...
Winter Squash Soup with Vin Jaune
I’ve lost track of the origins of this soup, which might have been my own innovation. It uses vin jaune, the unusual, very dry white...
Soupe à l’Oignon
Some of the most richly flavored soups of all are onion. Some are purposefully pale, but deep flavor comes from ...
Purée de Petits Pois
Soups of fresh, sweet green peas, cooked nearly like petits pois à la laitue but puréed and called purées, are very Parisian...
Bread and Zucchini Soup
This summer soup is adapted from the cookbook La Cucina del Piemonte by Giovanni Goria, published in 1990, where it is given the dialect name...
Lesco
This versatile vegetable dish, second only to gulyás in the Hungarian gastronomic canon, is actually of Serbian origin. ...
Soupe aux Choux à l’Huile de Noix
A quick cabbage soup usually gets much of its flavor from cured pork, such as smoked sausage...
Carrot Soup
This basic soup relies for thickening only on the puréed carrots themselves. Like so many other vegetables, the carrots in regular supermarkets...
Carrot and Tomato Soup
Homage to the late-summer vegetable garden, the combination of carrot and tomato is excellent, with sweetness coming from one ...
Asparagus Soup
Unless you have perfectly fresh asparagus, peel it to bring the taste closer to just-picked. I prefer that a soup have its own inherent consistency...
Caponata
This Sicilian accompaniment to bread is a way to preserve eggplants. Its elaborate taste recalls the Arab influence on the island’s cooking...
Turnip Gratin
One of the most underappreciated old preparations is a vegetable gratin made with white sauce — béchamel in French, balsamella in Italian...
Far au Choux
The batter for this rustic pudding, from the Quercy in southwest France, is essentially the same as that for crêpes, clafoutis, popovers...
Gratin d’Épinards
A gratin d’épinards, made with good old creamed spinach, goes well with grilled steak and other meats. The following proportions yield extra...
Chard Stalks with Anchovy
With this recipe, the bland, fleshy stalks of chard are boosted by a very savory sauce that, depending on your expectations when...
Young Peas and New Potatoes with Cream
When peas are ready and new potatoes have formed underground in spring or early summer, that’s the time for peas and new potatoes with sweet...