RECIPES

Lemon Chiffon Pie

By Edward Behr

The original chiffon pie, invented in Los Angeles in 1926 by Monroe Boston Strause, the Pie King, was thickened with cornstarch and lightened with egg-white foam. Most recipes now make a custard of the yolks, add gelatin, and fold in the beaten whites. The version below, however, calls for a sabayon (or zabaione), an egg-yolk foam, which is lightened with whipped cream and set with gelatin. When you make sabayon, a saucepan with angled sides allows a whisk to reach the corners more easily, and deep-orange egg yolks give a brighter yellow color. What makes the pie so good is the contrast between the tender lemony foam and the buttery, caramelly crisp crust. It helps to have salt in the crust, about ½ teaspoon (3 gr) for a crust of the size below.

a 9-inch flaky pie crust, baked to a deep golden and cooled

1 envelope (7 gr) unflavored gelatin

½ cup cold water

¾ cup (160 gr) sugar

2 teaspoons grated lemon zest, yellow only

½ cup (250 ml) lemon juice (from 2 lemons, usually)

4 yolks from large (60 gr) eggs

1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream

Place a dozen ice cubes in a large bowl and add just enough cold water to float the ice. In a small bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over the ½ cup cold water.

In a saucepan, whisk together the sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice, and egg yolks. Cook the mixture gently over medium-low heat (or immersed in the not-quite-boiling water of a bain-marie), whisking continuously to prevent cooking on the bottom and to create a foam. Take the mixture from the heat when it has about doubled in volume and thickened slightly (an instant thermometer reads about 160 degrees F, or 70 degrees C) — roughly 10 minutes. Immediately whisk in the gelatin and water, combining them completely. Then place the pan in the ice water, whisking for 1 to 2 minutes while the sabayon cools to tepid. Transfer the foam to a large bowl.

Whip the cream until it just holds peaks. Fold it into the sabayon, a third at a time, blending fully. Fill the crust — the sabayon will flow, not mound — and refrigerate. (If you have extra, fill ramekins.) In 2 to 3 hours, the filling will set. Allow the pie to warm somewhat at room temperature before serving. Serves 6 to 8.