Table of Contents

2017  |  No. 99

Letter from the Editor Edward Behr

What Truly Matters for Good Meat  Nicolette Hahn Niman
To Everything There Should Be a Season

Poultry and Perfection  Jordan Mackay
The True Taste of Chicken

Getting Your Goat  Melissa Pasanen
The Next “New” Meat?

A Different Perspective on Beef  Archana Pidathala
Notes from India

A World Without Fences  Carla Capalbo
Meat in the Country of Georgia

Real Rye Bread  James MacGuire
Why It’s So Rare and Difficult to Make

Poem
“What’s Not on the Menu”  Henry Rathvon

Cheese Anthology
Gruyère from Switzerland and Two French Offspring  Edward Behr
GruyèreComté, and Beaufort

Why This Bottle, Really?
2009 Südtirol Lagrein Riserva, Nüsserhof (Heinrich Mayr), Italy  Tse Wei Lim

Resources
Stainless-Steel Mesh Skimmer  Edward Behr

Restaurants
In the High Andes, Fine Dining for the Masses
Jama in Huaraz, Peru  Max Nathanson and Griffin Bohm

Six Addresses
St. Petersburg: One Day, Between Nostalgia and Modernity  Guélia Pevzner

Books
Adam Federman’s Fasting and Feasting  Edward Behr
Maricel E. Presilla’s Peppers of the Americas  Isabel Torrealba
Shorts: Winnie Yang on Hello, My Name Is Ice Cream
Edward Behr on Reinventing the WheelPrime, and A Sherry & A Little Plate of Tapas

Contributors

Edward Behr (“Gruyère from Switzerland and Two French Offspring,” Books: Fasting and Feasting, Resources, Shorts) is the author of The Food & Wine of France and the publisher of The Art of Eating.

Griffin Bohm (Restaurants: “In the High Andes, Fine Dining for the Masses”) is a freelance journalist, originally from Colorado, who lives in Chilean Patagonia, where he runs the brewing operations for a series of gastropubs.

Carla Capalbo (“A World Without Fences”), a photographer and writer, was born in New York, brought up in Paris and London, and has spent much of her life in Italy. Her books include Collio: Fine Wines and Foods from Italy’s Northeast and her new Tasting Georgia: A Food and Wine Journey in the Caucasus.

Nicolette Niman Hahn (“What Truly Matters for Good Meat”) is an attorney and livestock rancher and the author of Defending Beef: The Case for Sustainable Meat Production and Righteous Porkchop: Finding a Life and Good Food Beyond Factory Farms.

Tse Wei Lim (“Why This Bottle, Really?”) was a co-chef and co-owner of Journeyman, a restaurant in Somerville, Massachusetts, which closed earlier this year. He has been published in The Boston Globe and is currently working on a book about his experiences as a restaurateur.

James MacGuire (“Real Rye Bread”) is a chef and baker, an expert in classical French cooking, and a leading authority on bread. He lives in Montreal.

Jordan Mackay (“Poultry and Perfection”) writes about wine, spirits, and food; his work has appeared in publications including The New York Times, The Los Angeles Times, The San Francisco Chronicle, Decanter, and The Art of Eating. Among his recent books are collaborations, including Two in the Kitchen (with his wife, Christie Dufault), Franklin Barbecue (with Aaron Franklin), and, this year, Knife (with John Tesar).

Max Nathanson (Restaurants: “In the High Andes, Fine Dining for the Masses”), originally from Colorado, is a freelance photojournalist and a graduate student in international development at the University of Oxford, where his research includes the politics of sustainable development.

Melissa Pasanen (“Getting Your Goat”) writes about food, farming, and sustainability. She is the food editor for Vermont Life magazine, a regular contributor to Vermont Public Radio, and has written for The Art of Eating since 2000.

Guélia Pevzner (Six Addresses: St. Petersburg) was born in Moscow and lives in France, where she writes for Fine Art, Paris Match, and Elle as well as publishing columns in Russia and broadcasting on the BBC and RFI. Her most recent book, in Russian, is a history of medieval cuisine for children.

Archana Pidathala (“A Different Perspective on Beef”) is the author of Five Morsels of Love, based on a cookbook left unfinished by her grandmother, about the traditional Andhra cuisine of southeast India. She lives in Bangalore.

Henry Rathvon (“What’s Not on the Menu”), with his partner Emily Cox, creates crossword puzzles for The New York Times, The Boston Globe, and The Wall Street Journal. He is working on a collection of poems about food.

Isabel Torrealba (Books: Peppers of the Americas) is a social anthropologist turned journalist, currently studying for a master’s degree in cultural reporting and criticism. She grew up in Oaxaca, Mexico, where her parents were chefs. Her work has appeared in Edible Austin, Mujer Texas, and Eater.

Winnie Yang (Shorts: Hello, My Name Is Ice Cream) is a food writer and an editor for the site The Wirecutter and was previously the managing editor of Culinary Backstreets and of The Art of Eating.


Top photograph: A pastoralist near Gudauri, Georgia, watches his flock. From Tasting Georgia: A Food and Wine Journey in the Caucasus by the writer and photographer Carla Capalbo.

The Art of Eating is about the best food and wine. Subscribe, renew, or give AoE today.