Table of Contents

2017  |  No. 98

The Elements of High Flavor in Fruit  David Karp
Nine Varieties that Meet the Classic Standard for Greatness

Mango  Archana Pidathala
A Taste of Indian Summer

The Best Cantaloupe Sorbet  Shuna Lydon
Exploit the Flavor Around the Seeds

Bergamot  Nancy Harmon Jenkins
The Compelling Aroma of a Rare Kind of Citrus

Flaky Crust, Sugary Crust  Edward Behr
The Most Important Part of Pie

Waldmeister  Jude Stewart
Sweet Woodruff Tastes like Now

What Do Pine Trees and Grapes Have in Common?  Alexis Adams
In Greece, a New Approach to Retsina

Poem
“The Pie Not Taken”  Henry Rathvon

Cheese Anthology
Four French Interpretations of Goat  Edward Behr
Valençay, Pouligny-Saint-Pierre, Selles-sur-Cher, and Pélardon

Why This Bottle, Really?
2014 Riesling, Magdalena Vineyard, Hermann J. Wiemer, Finger Lakes  Meg Houston Maker
2015 Arbois Trois Cépages, Domaine du Pélican, Jura  Peter Meehan

Resources
The Baratza Virtuoso Coffee Grinder  Edward Behr

Restaurants
Le Servan in Paris  Jon Bonné
The New Continues in the City of Light

Six Addresses
Copenhagen, Before and After Noma  Lisa Abend

Books
Andrew Moore’s Pawpaw  Nancie McDermott

Contributors

Lisa Abend (“Six Addresses: Copenhagen”) is a contributor to Newsweek magazine, and, from Copenhagen, she writes frequently about food and travel for publications including Afar, Saveur, Vice, and The New York Times. She is the author of The Sorcerer’s Apprentices: A Season in the Kitchen of Ferran Adrià’s elBulli.

Alexis Adams (“What Do Pine Trees and Grapes Have in Common?”) writes about food for various publications. She lives with her family near the Beartooth Mountains of Montana and at times on the Peloponnese Peninsula.

Edward Behr  (“Flaky Crust, Sugary Crust”) is the author of The Food & Wine of France and the publisher of The Art of Eating.

Jon Bonné (Restaurants: Le Servan), after nearly a decade as wine editor of The San Francisco Chronicle (the only major US newspaper with a stand-alone wine section) is now the senior contributing editor for the online magazine PUNCH. He’s the author of The New California Wine; his The New Wine Rules will be published this fall; and he is currently at work on The New French Wine.

Nancy Harmon Jenkins (“Bergamot”) is the author of many books and articles, mostly about food — growing it, cooking it, eating it. Her most recent book, written with her daughter, Sara Jenkins, is The Four Seasons of Pasta. She divides her time between a home on the coast of Maine and an olive farm in Tuscany.

David Karp (“The Elements of High Flavor in Fruit”) has been writing about and photographing fruit since 1992, including for The Los Angeles Times and The New York Times. He is a citrus researcher affiliated with the University of California, Riverside, and a partner in Andy’s Orchard, which grows high-flavored stone fruit in Morgan Hill, California.

Shuna Lydon (“The Best Cantaloupe Sorbet“) has been baking and cooking professionally for more than two decades. She believes deliciousness trumps all else and approaches baking with a “season-to-taste” philosophy. She loves fruit: the seasons are her muse. While not an official Fruit Hunter, she has been known to travel great distances, and pay far too much for mythical produce.

Meg Houston Maker (“Why This Bottle, Really?”) writes about nature, culture, food, wine, and place. She travels extensively to taste with producers, hear their stories, and see first-hand what links them to their land. Her writing and criticism have appeared in publications including SOMM Journal, Serious Eats, The Tasting Panel, and Alimentum; additional work appears on her website, Maker’s Table.

Nancie McDermott (Books:  Pawpaw) is a food writer and cooking teacher based in Chapel Hill, North Carolina. She focuses on the food of Thailand, where she spent three years as a Peace Corps volunteer, and of the American South, where she was born and raised. Her latest book is Fruit: A Savor the South Cookbook.

Peter Meehan (“Why This Bottle, Really?”) has been a restaurant writer for The New York Times, was a founder of Lucky Peach, and was a co-creator of the television show “Mind of a Chef.” He is the author of a number of cookbooks of which his favorite is Lucky Peach Presents 101 Easy Asian Recipes.

Archana Pidathala (“Mango”)  is the author of the cookbook Five Morsels of Love, based on a cookbook left unfinished by her grandmother, about the traditional Andhra cuisine of southeast India. She lives in Bangalore.

Henry Rathvon (“The Pie Not Taken”), with his partner Emily Cox, creates crossword puzzles for The New York Times, The Boston Globe, and The Wall Street Journal. He is working on a collection of poems about food.

Jude Stewart (“Waldmeister”) lives in Chicago and writes about design and culture for Slate, The Atlantic, Fast Company, and Gastronomica, and other publications. She is author of ROY G. BIV: An Exceedingly Surprising Book About Color and Patternalia: An Unconventional History of Polka Dots, Stripes, Plaid, Camouflage & Other Graphic Patterns.


Top photograph: Greengage can label from the 1890s, when greengages were grown commercially in Northern California. David Karp

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