Table of Contents

Winter 2017  |  No. 97

Of Sheep and Cheese  Jarrett Wrisley
Pecorino in Lazio

Alto Piemonte’s Renaissance  Daniel Bruce
Notes from Lessona and Carema

French Food  Edward Behr
What Can It Still Contribute?

One Fish, Stew Fish  Mitchell Davis and Laurent Gras
San Francisco Cioppino

Sweetness from the Dark  Jesse Dart
Yorkshire Forced Rhubarb

Blowing Things Up with Eggs  Edward Behr
Popovers, Clafoutis, Yorkshire Pudding, and Pescajounes

Besk  Jude Stewart
The Bitter Taste of Some of Chicago’s Best Bartenders

Cheese Anthology
Mozzarella di Bufala Campana  Edward Behr

Why This Bottle, Really?
2011 Montefalco Rosso, Raína, Umbria  Sara Jenkins

Resources
Ilsa Cast-Iron Heat Diffuser  Edward Behr

Restaurants
Latteria San Marco in Milan  Mitchell Davis
Corte Sconta in Venice  Nick Czap

Six Addresses
Grab and Go in Rome  Nicholas Anderer

Books
Marcella and Victor Hazan’s Ingredienti  Edward Behr
Rachel Roddy’s My Kitchen in Rome  Nancy Harmon Jenkins
Shorts: James MacGuire on 32 Yolks
Edward Behr
on The Aleppo Cookbook, Five Morsels of Love, and Land of Fish and Rice

Contributors

Nicholas Anderer (“Six Addresses: Rome“), while studying art history, spent a year in Rome and decided to become a professional cook. He has cooked for Larry Forgione, Mario Batali, in kitchens in Rome and Milan, at Gramercy Tavern, and is currently executive chef of the Rome-inspired Maialino in New York City. In 2014, he opened the pizzeria Marta.

Edward Behr (“French Food”) is the author of The Food & Wine of France and the publisher of The Art of Eating.

Daniel Bruce (“Alto Piemonte’s Renaissance”) grew up in southern Sweden and studied Latin languages. He is a freelance journalist and travels frequently in Europe and Asia to write about wine and whisky among other things.

Nick Czap (Restaurants: “An Island of Traditional Cooking”) is a writer and photographer based in San Francisco; his work has appeared in The New York Times, Rhapsody, and other publications.

Jesse Dart (“Sweetness from the Dark”) writes about food, culture, and society for a variety of publications, including The Atlantic, Roads & Kingdoms, and The Guardian. After earning his M.A. at the University of Gastronomic Sciences in Italy, he is working on a Ph.D. in anthropology.

Mitchell Davis (“One Fish, Stew Fish”), executive vice president of the James Beard Foundation, is a writer and a scholar with a Ph.D. in food studies from New York University. He is the author of three cookbooks and co-author, with Laurent Gras, of the e-book My Provence. He writes frequently for magazines such as Lucky Peach and Saveur. His last article for The Art of Eating was “Nishi: David Chang’s New Push on Eighth Avenue.”

Laurent Gras (“One Fish, Stew Fish”) has earned three Michelin Stars at three different restaurants — Alain Ducasse’s Louis XV in Monte Carlo, Alain Ducasse Paris, and then his own L20 in Chicago. He now works as a restaurant consultant in New York City and develops ideas and recipes with Mitchell Davis, with whom he is co-author of the e-cookbook My Provence.

Nancy Harmon Jenkins (Books: My Kitchen in Rome) is the author of many books and articles, mostly about some aspect of food — growing it, cooking it, eating it. Her most recent book, written with her daughter, Sara Jenkins, is The Four Seasons of Pasta. She divides her time between a home on the coast of Maine and an olive farm in Tuscany. Her last article for The Art of Eating was “The Hot Red Aleppo Pepper.”

Sara Jenkins (“Why This Bottle, Really?”) is chef-owner of Ristorante Porsena and the Extra Bar, in New York City, and of Nīna June Restaurant in Rockport, Maine. She is the co-author, with Mindy Fox, of Olives & Oranges and, with her mother Nancy Harmon Jenkins, of The Four Seasons of Pasta.

James MacGuire (Books: 32 Yolks) is a chef and food writer in Montreal. He is a leading authority on bread and an acclaimed teacher of the baker’s craft. He has been called, in The Globe & Mail, “Montreal’s walking Larousse Gastronomique, genius baker and grand transmitter of classic French cuisine.”

Jude Stewart (“Besk”) lives in Chicago and writes about design and culture for Slate, The Atlantic, Fast Company, and Gastronomica, among other publications. She is author of ROY G. BIV: An Exceedingly Surprising Book About Color and Patternalia: An Unconventional History of Polka Dots, Stripes, Plaid, Camouflage & Other Graphic Patterns.

Jarrett Wrisley (“Of Sheep and Cheese”) currently divides his time between Bangkok, where with an Italian partner he owns several non-Thai restaurants, and Italy where, with the same partner, he is developing a sheep farm and dairy and working on a book about Roman cooking. He has traveled throughout much of Asia and lived for a number of years in Shanghai where he began his career as a freelance writer focusing on food cultures and traditions in China and Southeast Asia.


Top photograph: Forced rhubarb in the sheds of the Tomlinson family in the Yorkshire Triangle. Valeria Necchio.

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