From left to right, top to bottom: Bonnie Benwick, Ronna Welsh, John Birdsall, Bryan Washington, Barbara Damrosch, Vera Fabian, Gordan Jenkins, Naomi Duguid, Simon Thibault, John T. Edge, Rosalind Bentley, Tunde Way, Lolis Eric Elie, Osayi Endolyn, Jessica B. Harris, Nicole Taylor, Scott Alves Barton, Betty Fussell, Felicia Campbell, Evan Kleiman, Tejal Rao, Francis Lam, Steve Hoffman, Todd A. Price, Hanna Raskin, Alan Richman, Molly Stevens, and Ruby Tandoh. Caricatures by Gregg.
I meant to write only a short exploration of tomato varieties for this issue, but as I learned more about tomato flavor I became drawn in, until I had one of the longest articles I’ve written in years. I kept thinking of the best high-summer tomatoes, which are so sweet that, for instance, you can make ketchup without sugar. In contrast to summer gardens, Kyrgystan, in a visit by Maria Korneitchik, offers an escape to a high, nomadic place whose primordial food has only a tenuous link to agriculture. Then it’s back to gardens and fruit. My thoughts about berry jam were written over three summers as I realized how particular berries are. In contrast, two
weeks ago I made my first jam from sour cherries, a stone fruit. Where the aim with berries is to move quickly to capture high-note freshness, the characteristic flavors of sour cherries appear only in cooking and are much more durable. Lillie O’Brien, in Five Seasons of Jam, reviewed by Deborah Reid, is a purist. She doesn’t mix her fruits; rather for each she finds a complement or two in spices and other flavorings. Also on the subject of fruit, Henry Rathvon’s peaches come in poetic form. And lemon chiffon pie offers light on the tongue refreshment (though it isn’t really light at all).
Carla Capalbo (Restaurants: The Crazy Pomegranate) a writer and photographer, was born in New York, brought up in Paris and London, and has spent much of her life in Italy. Her books include The Food and Wine Guide to Naples and Campania and Tasting Georgia: A Food and Wine Journey in the Caucasus.
Avram Dumitrescu (“Peaches”) is the illustrator of MFK Fisher: Among the Pots and Pans by Joan Reardon and Marfa for the Perplexed by Lonn Taylor and has created art for many US and UK magazines. He lives in Alpine, Texas.
Drew Lazor (Six Addresses: Philadelphia) based in Philadelphia, has written about food and drink for many magazines and newspapers. He is the co-author of New German Cooking and the author of How to Drink French Fluently and Session Cocktails.