From left to right, top to bottom: Bonnie Benwick, Ronna Welsh, John Birdsall, Bryan Washington, Barbara Damrosch, Vera Fabian, Gordan Jenkins, Naomi Duguid, Simon Thibault, John T. Edge, Rosalind Bentley, Tunde Way, Lolis Eric Elie, Osayi Endolyn, Jessica B. Harris, Nicole Taylor, Scott Alves Barton, Betty Fussell, Felicia Campbell, Evan Kleiman, Tejal Rao, Francis Lam, Steve Hoffman, Todd A. Price, Hanna Raskin, Alan Richman, Molly Stevens, and Ruby Tandoh. Caricatures by Gregg.

Table of Contents

2019  |  No. 104

Rich, Sweet Red Tomatoes  Edward Behr
You Can’t Have Too Much Sun or a Too Great Variety

Established Writers on Newer, Younger Writers
Where Are We Going from Here?

The Philosophy of Jam  Edward Behr
Making Your Own Black Currant, Raspberry, Blueberry…

Kyrgyzstan and the Cuisine of the Silk Road  Maria Korneitchik
Truly Nomadic Food

Zucchine alla Scapece   Edward Behr
Neapolitan Fundamental

Lemon Chiffon Pie  Edward Behr
Cool, Refreshing Foam

Cheese Anthology
From the Fields of a Dry Island  Edward Behr

“Peaches”  Henry Rathvon

Why This Bottle, Really?
2018 La Petite Roche, Savennières, Domaine Laureau  Al Drinkle

Bamboo Garden Poles  Edward Behr
Timeless and Highly Practical
A Wide-Mouthed Funnel  Edward Behr
So Much Better Than Not Having One

The Crazy Pomegranate in Tabaani, Sighnaghi, Georgia  Carla Capalbo
A Panoramic Feast

Six Addresses
Philadelphia: Other Than Cheesesteak  Drew Lazor

Lisa Q. Fetterman’s Sous-Vide Made Simple, America’s Test Kitchen’s Sous Vide for Everybody,
and Jason Logsdon’s Modernist Cooking Made Easy: Sous Vide  Derrick Schneider
Lillie O’Brien’s Five Seasons of Jam  Deborah Reid
Shorts: Edward Behr on Coyotes in the Pasture & Wolves at the Door, Serious Eater, and The Whole Okra

Letter from the Editor

I meant to write only a short exploration of tomato varieties for this issue, but as I learned more about tomato flavor I became drawn in, until I had one of the longest articles I’ve written in years. I kept thinking of the best high-summer tomatoes, which are so sweet that, for instance, you can make ketchup without sugar. In contrast to summer gardens, Kyrgystan, in a visit by Maria Korneitchik, offers an escape to a high, nomadic place whose primordial food has only a tenuous link to agriculture. Then it’s back to gardens and fruit. My thoughts about berry jam were written over three summers as I realized how particular berries are. In contrast, two

weeks ago I made my first jam from sour cherries, a stone fruit. Where the aim with berries is to move quickly to capture high-note freshness, the characteristic flavors of sour cherries appear only in cooking and are much more durable. Lillie O’Brien, in Five Seasons of Jam, reviewed by Deborah Reid, is a purist. She doesn’t mix her fruits; rather for each she finds a complement or two in spices and other flavorings. Also on the subject of fruit, Henry Rathvon’s peaches come in poetic form. And lemon chiffon pie offers light on the tongue refreshment (though it isn’t really light at all).





Edward Behr (“Rich, Sweet Red Tomatoes”; “The Philosophy of Jam”; “From the Fields of a Dry Island”; “Zucchine alla Scapece”; “Lemon Chiffon Pie”; Resources: Bamboo Garden Poles and Wide-Mouthed Funnel; Books: Shorts) is the editor of The Art of Eating. He is the author of 50 Foods and The Food & Wine of France.

Carla Capalbo (Restaurants: The Crazy Pomegranate) a writer and photographer, was born in New York, brought up in Paris and London, and has spent much of her life in Italy. Her books include The Food and Wine Guide to Naples and Campania and Tasting Georgia: A Food and Wine Journey in the Caucasus.

Avram Dumitrescu (“Peaches”) is the illustrator of MFK Fisher: Among the Pots and Pans by Joan Reardon and Marfa for the Perplexed by Lonn Taylor and has created art for many US and UK magazines. He lives in Alpine, Texas.

Al Drinkle (“Why This Bottle, Really?”) has a degree in philosophy and is a partner at Metrovino, a wine shop in Calgary, Alberta.

Gregg (“Established Writers on Newer, Younger Writers”) is a caricaturist who has worked widely in the United Kingdom, including for the website NME; he lives in Wales.


Drew Lazor (Six Addresses: Philadelphia) based in Philadelphia, has written about food and drink for many magazines and newspapers. He is the co-author of New German Cooking and the author of How to Drink French Fluently and Session Cocktails.

Maria Korneitchik (“Kyrgyzstan and the Cuisine of the Silk Road”) is a journalist, originally from Moscow, now living in France, who travels to different countries of the former Soviet Union, writing about their food and agriculture.

Henry Rathvon (“Peaches”) creates crossword puzzles for The New York Times, The Boston Globe, and The Wall Street Journal with his partner Emily Cox. He is working on a collection of poems about food.

Deborah Reid (Books: Five Seasons of Jam) is a writer and chef based in Toronto. Her work has appeared in The Globe and Mail, Civil Eats, Fine Cooking, Sift, and Eater.

Derrick Schneider (Books: Sous-Vide) is a programmer and writer; he lives in Berkeley, California.


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