R E C I P E S

Insalata di Arance (Orange Salad)

By Edward Behr

Orange salads, which can open or close a meal, are typical of both Sicily and Spain. The oranges should be slightly tart, to play the role normally played by vinegar. The oil for this salad should taste especially clean and fresh and, in my view, strongly of fruit. The salad is good as a minimal combination — oranges, oil, salt, and pepper — or you can add one or more of the garnishes below. Whenever onions are served raw, cut them at the last minute, because cutting sets off a complex sequence of changes in the sulfur compounds, which soon become unpleasant.

 

4 large eating oranges (or enough smaller ones to serve 4 people)

1/3 cup (80 ml) excellent, fresh-tasting olive oil

salt and black pepper

black olives, optional

thin slices of bulb fennel, optional

thin slices of onion, optional

 

Peel the oranges using a very sharp knife (a 10-inch or 25-cm chef’s knife is efficient) so as to cut cleanly and avoid pressing out juice. First cut a disk from the top and bottom of each fruit to reveal a flat circle of flesh; then, following the arc of the fruit, cut wide strips from top to bottom, each time cutting down to the flesh. Afterward trim any remaining white pith. Slice the peeled oranges crosswise into rounds about ¼ inch thick (a generous ½ cm). Remove any seeds. Vigorously stir together the oil, a good pinch of salt, and finely ground pepper, and pour this dressing over the orange slices. Allow the salt to dissolve for about 15 minutes before serving. Optionally, add any combination of the olives, fennel, and onion. Serves 4.

From The Art of Eating Cookbook