R E C I P E S

Fondue Franche-Comtoise (Cheese Fondue)

By Edward Behr

Fondue requires the standard equipment: an enameled cast-iron or glazed ceramic pot to set over a flame, a stand to hold it with a burner below, and long-handled forks. It’s usually said that the difference between a Franc-Comtois fondue and a Swiss one is that the latter contains Kirsch. Present-day Franc-Comtois purists take a minimalist approach, their only complication being to add two or three different ages of Comté cheese: young for smooth consistency, older for the dominant flavor, and a little of the truly old for its different aromatic range. Often fondue contains flour to keep the consistency more stable over the flame, especially if it cooks too hard or long — the sort of practice that may have originated in restaurants. Ideally, the wine for both the pot and the glass is a traditionally made sous-voile Jura white (Chardonnay, Savagnin, or a blend). Fondue is mainly a winter dish.

a large loaf of white or near-white “country” bread, preferably sourdough

2 cups (500 ml) white wine plus more as needed

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

2½ pounds (1.2 kilos) Comté without the hard part next to the rind, coarsely grated or sliced in thin strips

salt

Cut the bread into large dice, up to ¾ inch (2 cm). In a pan on the stove, boil the wine with the garlic until the liquid is reduced by half. Strain into a fondue pot and discard the garlic. Place the fondue pot on the stove over low heat, add the cheese, and stir it continuously with a wooden spoon or spatula until smooth. Add more wine as needed to achieve the consistency of rich but pourable cream. Taste and, if necessary, add salt. Carry the hot pot to the table and place it on the stand over the flame of the burner, so the fondue continues to bubble gently. Serves 6.