R E C I P E S

Escabetx de Verats (Marinated Mackerel)

By Edward Behr

This recipe is Catalan, but around the Mediterranean, the method is an old one for preserving fish briefly when they are cheap, abundant, and at their best. Escabetx, like escabeche, originated in Persia and was brought by Arabs (as al-sikbaj) to medieval Spain; Catalans claim that it was their form of the word, escabetx, that passed into other European languages. The fish — not only mackerel but other kinds (see sardele in saor) — used to be kept for a number of days, completely covered with the oil from frying, but even with refrigeration it seems better to keep them for only a few days. In preparing this or any food, use only European bay leaves, never the California species, which has a bolder, almost paintlike aroma.

2 pounds (1 kg) very fresh whole mackerel, cleaned

salt

excellent, fresh-tasting olive oil

branches of mixed fresh herbs, such as savory, thyme, oregano, and rosemary

several bay leaves

black pepper

1 clove garlic, chopped

ground sweet red pepper (pebre vermell or paprika), optional

1 cup (250 ml) good wine vinegar, less if the vinegar is very acidic

Dry the fish inside and out with paper towels, season well with salt, and fry just until the flesh at the thickest point is no longer translucent, keeping the oil well below the smoking point, in at least ¼ inch (6 mm) of oil — perhaps 4 or 5 minutes per side. Place the cooked fish in a deep platter, and over them distribute the fresh herbs and bay leaves, grindings of pepper, the garlic, and the ground sweet pepper. Pour on the vinegar and then the cooking oil, adding fresh oil if needed to cover the fish — or, more luxuriously, use entirely fresh oil. Refrigerate. After 1 to 3 days, remove the herbs and serve, tepid. Serves 4 as a main course.