R E C I P E S

Cipolline in Agrodolce (Sweet-and-Sour Onions)

By Edward Behr

The combination of sweet and sour isn’t common in Italian cooking, but it’s essential to certain preparations, and I’m fascinated by it, probably because my own cooking tends to be strictly savory, apart from dessert. In fact, these cipolline in agrodolce, which go well with meats and poultry, are mild enough that you can eat them as a vegetable. (For a more concentrated version, see this sweet-and-sour condiment.) They’re best when first cooked. Although red-wine vinegar tends to be more flavorful, you can substitute white-wine or cider vinegar. Sweet-and-sour preparations generally make wine taste sour and flavorless, but this mild dish is more adaptable than some.

2 pounds (1 kg) small onions, roughly 1 inch (2 to 3 cm) in diameter

2 tablespoons excellent, fresh-tasting olive oil

3 tablespoons red-wine vinegar plus more to taste

2 teaspoons sugar plus more to taste

2 whole cloves

1 bay leaf

salt and black pepper

Cook the onions in rapidly boiling water for no more than half a minute, peel them, and trim the ends, leaving enough root to hold them together. In a wide nonreactive pan over medium-low heat, cook the onions in one layer in the olive oil, turning to brown them lightly, about 15 minutes. Add an inch (2 or 3 cm) of water and the vinegar, sugar, cloves, bay leaf, and a little salt. Cook uncovered over low heat until the onions are tender, about 1 hour, turning them from time to time and adding a little water if the liquid becomes thick — don’t let it burn. Remove the cloves and bay leaf. Taste the liquid, now reduced to a sauce, and, if needed, add more salt and a little more vinegar or sugar; grind in pepper. Serves 4 to 6.