R E C I P E S

Pièce de Bœuf, Aubergine Brûlée

By Edward Behr

This recipe, more conservative than many of the combinations at Iñaki Aizpitarte’s praised Paris restaurant, presents something that’s almost classical, but with a twist. The interest centers on the aubergine brûlée, eggplant roasted directly on the flames of a gas stove burner, which blisters and blackens the skin as it cooks the vegetable. (If the black skin is very bitter, discard some or all of it.) The black exterior is afterward mashed with the soft interior. The French cut aiguillette, comes from the top of the rump; it’s a stringy muscle, in a nice way, weighing roughly 1.5 kilos (3½ pounds), not normally sold on its own in the US. The other option, paleron, comes from the shoulder and in US terms is “top blade roast.” Outside the season for new potatoes, use waxy ones, and when there are no new onions, use familiar scallions. Chive flowers have a short season and aren’t absolutely essential. For more cooking juices at the end, deglaze the meat pan with some of the stock from the potatoes.

Pièce de Bœuf, Aubergine Brûlée  (Beef with roasted eggplant)

2 eggplants, roughly 200 gr each (7 ounces) each

2 tablespoons good, fruity olive oil

salt and pepper

250 gr (9 ounces) new potatoes, such as from Noirmoutier, roughly 2.5 cm (1 inch) in diameter

½ liter (2 cups) white chicken stock

50 gr (4 tablespoons) lightly salted butter

600 gr (1 pound 5 ounces) beef aiguillette or paleron (see note above) in one piece, trimmed of tough portions

1 soupspoon peanut oil

4 new onions (long, narrow scallions, with much of the green included)

chive flowers

for the roasted eggplant

Turn the flame of a burner of a gas range to high. Place both eggplants directly on the grate meant to support a pan. Carefully roast all around, 8 to 15 minutes for each of several “sides,” until a knife shows the eggplants are tender all the way through. (Fatter eggplants may have to be finished in a 165º C, or 325º F, oven.) Remove the stems. With a fork, mash the eggplants, including their blackened surfaces, to an even consistency, incorporating the olive oil and seasoning with salt and pepper.

for the new potatoes

Wash but don’t peel the new potatoes. In a cold casserole (a heavy pan with a cover), place the white chicken stock, butter, and potatoes, and then turn the heat to low, cooking the potatoes gently until done.

for the beef

Remove the beef from the refrigerator ½ hour before cooking it. Place a pan (preferably large enough to hold the onions, too — see next) over medium heat, and add the peanut oil. Keeping the meat in one piece, salt it, place it in the pan, and cook it, progressively raising the heat and browning the meat on all sides, to “blue” or rare.

for the new onions

At the same time as the beef, and if possible in the same pan, brown the new onions, whole, turning, and cook them until nearly soft.

to serve

Heat the eggplant and slice the meat. With a spatula, arrange the eggplant around the edge of the plate as a condiment. Place the meat in the center, moistening it with the cooking juices. Add the onion, some of the new potatoes, and some of the chive flowers. Serves 4.