R E C I P E S

Bhopali Pasande

By Michael Snyder
Photograph by Palash Bakshi

Though garam masalas vary significantly according to region, this Bhopali version (see “Bhopali Cuisine“) will serve perfectly well for most North Indian preparations that call for garam masala. The mixture loses fragrance fairly quickly, so adjust the quantity according to how soon you expect to use it. In a pinch, in lieu of this Bhopali version, you can use store-bought garam masala.

Note that you will also need a live coal from a charcoal or wood fire.

for the garam masala

100 gr whole black cardamom pods (black cardamom isn’t really a pod, so this 
you’ll roast whole before grinding)

100 gr green cardamom pods, seeds removed and pods discarded

100 gr cinnamon

50 gr whole cloves

50 gr mace

50 gr nutmeg

50 gr black peppercorns

50 gr cumin seed

50 gr coriander seed

50 gr Indian bay leaves, or cassia (Cinnamomum tamala), if possible; otherwise, bay laurel (Lauris nobilis)

Lightly roast all these ingredients in a dry pan until fragrant, but before they begin to smoke. Grind them together to a fine powder in a food processor or a clean blade coffee grinder.

to make the dish

1 kilo (2 pounds) goat (preferably “mutton,” which in India means not sheep but adult goat), boneless, cut into narrow strips roughly ½ inch thick by 1 inch wide by 2 to 3 inches long (1 by 2.5 by 7 cm)

2 inches unripe raw papaya, ground (or substitute 1 tablespoon amchur, which is green mango powder)

salt

3 tablespoons oil, such as canola or sunflower

1 large (about 200 gr) onion, chopped, plus hollowed half onion, separated into “bowls”

4 inches ginger root, peeled and chopped

1 small head garlic, chopped

3 whole red chiles, more or less, according to taste

roughly 2 tablespoons shredded fresh (unsweetened) coconut

5 almonds

50 gr dry-roasted chickpeas (chana or gram in Hindi)

25 gr poppy seed

10 gr garam masala

ghee

150 gr yogurt

 

One day ahead, pound the sliced meat using a sil-batta (a rough stone or any rough heavy object at your disposal). Add the unripe papaya and salt well, and leave in the refrigerator to marinate and tenderize overnight.

When the meat is ready, heat a small “turn” of oil (in the sense of a turn of the bottle around the pan, maybe 1 tablespoon) in a frying pan, then lightly fry the chopped onion, ginger, garlic, whole red chiles, coconut, almonds and dry chickpeas until golden brown. Remove from the oil and, using the same oil, fry the poppy seed, then strain through a metal sieve to remove excess oil. Grind these fried ingredients together until fine, then combine them and the garam masala powder with the meat.

Arrange the meat and spice mixture around a broad frying pan, then place a hollowed half of an onion in the center. Inside the onion, place a live coal and then douse it with liquid ghee. Quickly cover the pan and use a cloth to seal the seam around the edge of the lid. Let stand for about 45 minutes to fully smoke the meat, and remove the coal and onion.

When the meat is smoked, heat remaining oil (1 to 2 tablespoons) in a heavy-bottomed frying pan. Add the meat and then the yogurt and cook over medium heat until the meat is cooked through and most of the liquid has evaporated. Remove the pan from the heat and place it in the oven to continue cooking in the residual heat until the dish has become dry, not too long.

When complete, repeat the step with the onion, live coal, and ghee for a second round of smoking, this time letting it sit for 15 to 20 minutes. Serves 6.

From issue 95