R E C I P E S

Asparagus Soup

By Edward Behr

Unless you have perfectly fresh asparagus, peel it to bring the taste closer to just-picked. I prefer that a soup have its own inherent consistency rather than one thickened with added starch — unlike a sauce, a soup doesn’t have to cling to anything, but only fill a spoon. And some soups, such as this purée, are slightly thick all by themselves. Instead of using olive oil to enrich it, you can use butter, and then, if you want, add a cup of rich cream at the end. You can also serve this asparagus soup cold, adding a little extra salt and placing beside each bowl a slice of lemon for squeezing. (If you add the lemon juice in the kitchen, the acidity will quickly turn the color olive drab.)

 

2 pounds (1 kilo) asparagus spears

2 shallots, sliced thickly

2 or more tablespoons excellent, fresh-tasting olive oil, not too bitter

salt and black pepper

 

Break off and discard the tough bottom stems of the asparagus spears and, unless the asparagus was just picked, peel it. Boil the asparagus and shallots together in plenty of lightly salted water until they are completely tender, anywhere from 2 to 7 or more minutes, depending on the thickness and freshness of the spears, the heat of the stove, and the quantity of boiling water. Drain, reserving several cups of the cooking liquid. If you want to use the tips of the spears for garnish, cut them off and set them aside.

Purée the asparagus spears and shallots in a food mill, food processor, or blender, adding olive oil to taste and thinning with a little of the cooking liquid if it’s needed to help a machine form a smooth purée. Don’t let the purée cool, but promptly transfer it to a pan over a medium flame. Add more cooking liquid to thin the purée to soup consistency. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Heat to a boil and serve promptly in hot bowls. Garnish with the asparagus tips, if you saved them. Serves 4 to 6.


From The Art of Eating Cookbook

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