Recipes
This tart is inspired by German Zwiebelkuchen; if you’re fond of caraway seed, add ½ teaspoon or more to the filling. The custard filling isn’t...
In this winter salad, you might think the rocket could be replaced with spinach, but it doesn’t provide the needed strong contrast in flavor. Rocket...
The turban-shaped kugelhopf, a form of brioche, is made in a swath of Europe that includes Austria, Switzerland, southern Germany, and the French region of...
Boil the water and sugar (or honey) over medium heat until sugar crystals are no longer visible. Set this simple syrup aside to cool to...
Slice off the top and bottom of the pineapple, set it upright, and remove the skin by slicing in swathes from top to bottom, leaving...
This was originally made to use up leftover nuts and dried fruits from Christmas that might otherwise have been thrown away, hence the ...
Angelina uses young lamb with small bones. If you can’t find it, use the lamb you have. If there happens to be bone, leave it,...
The chef Angelina Ceriello’s son, Vincenzo, always laughs and says that the family’s recipes are “embarrassingly simple.” Indeed, in a way, they...
“For aggressiveness and determined lack of subtlety, sprouts have no peer,” Richard Olney wrote, before advocating “shock treatment” with “bacon......
When I serve a lettuce salad, I almost always place it after the main course, if only because that’s what my parents did, and that...
For all its spice, a pumpkin pie should taste like pumpkin. To avoid a canned flavor, cook your own. A fresher flavor, at the risk...
The native North American cranberry, Vaccinium macrocarpon, lives in bogs and is commonly grown in artificial ones, although water isn’t required. (The flooding is helpful......
Stuffed cabbage, chou farci in French, is an essential part of the cooking of most of Europe — Germany, Poland, Lithuania, Hungary, Romania, Russia —...
Apart from the corn, the ingredients of New England corn chowder were generally on hand 50 years ago, and in some households well after that:...
Ratatouille, especially when it’s made with overgrown flavorless zucchini, can be so obviously low-labor, low-cost — quick at home and an economy item in restaurants....
Poulet au vinaigre may be traditional, but it’s scarce and perhaps nonexistent in French cookbooks published before the 1970s, when it was taken up by...
The French word fricassée, probably from the words for “fry” and “break,” is in modern times often a dish of chicken cut up, or “broken,”...
Mást’o musir is “yogurt with musir,” meaning the wild Persian shallot, Allium hirtifolium, which has a somewhat garlicky flavor. It’s mostly sold ...
Apart from the kind of focaccia that’s simply a piece of bread dough stretched wide and baked directly on a hearth, I’ve never been impressed...
For this raw salad, the carrots can be shredded using a Cuisinart shredding blade or a hand grater with about 1/8-inch holes (3 to 4...
Chicken, cream, morels, and vin jaune form one of the great flavor combinations. The dish comes from the Jura Mountains in the Franche-Comté region of...
This is probably the most popular way to cook rabbit for fenkata. When you cut up the rabbit, it helps to follow its anatomy, dividing...
For all its hominess, an apple bread pudding complements a sweet, botrytized wine, including a great one. A good sweet wine ...
I first came to appreciate walnut bread when I tasted it with goat’s-milk cheese, but like walnuts themselves, the bread goes well with most ...
The egg, milk, and butter make this a form of brioche. The folding technique, from James MacGuire, is described in his ...
“Chili is largely a state of mind,” Bill Bridges wrote in his 1981 Great American Chili Book. He was a native of ...
This bread pudding from the department of Lozère in southern France, historically one of the poorest ...
Most, possibly all the honey-and-walnut or -hazelnut cake recipes linked to Périgord, including the mutations online, descend from ...
Some Maine cooks still don’t sweeten their baked beans, or they hardly do, and this old-school version doesn’t call for any form of ...
“Green” in this old Southern US dish refers to milky, young but ripe sweet corn (“sweet corn” as opposed to field corn). Compared with more...
Spoonbread is a counterpoint to usual American cornbread. Where that calls for much more cornmeal than liquid, spoonbread calls for...
If you can, choose young branches sticky with resin. In hot weather, the coarse texture of granita seems more refreshing than a smooth...
Berries are a crop that excels in more northern places, and the long days around the summer solstice produce the best flavor...
Lavender flowers are at their most aromatic when perhaps a quarter of the buds on a spike have opened. Pick the flowers in the morning...
Among ices and sorbets, lemon may be the easiest to judge. In Italy, even in better gelaterie, there’s a big range in quality, and the...
A test of a gelateria in Italy is always pistachio — its focused, clean intensity. I call this a gelato because what distinguishes gelato in...
Avocado, anchovies, garlic, capers, herbs, cream — everything speaks of excess, and it works. Green Goddess dressing goes on salads that benefit from a strong...
Sweetening with “boiled cider” makes the most apple-y applesauce, so much so that for all its deliciousness you might argue that the boiled cider overrides...
Open the mussels by preparing them à la marinière, using the ingredients above. Take the meats from their shells, squeezing each gently over the pot...
Cucumbers with sour cream and dill are good on their own and go well with smoked or marinated salmon. Peel 2 large...
Tiny green lentils from Le Puy in the Auvergne are particularly good dressed as salad. From...
The important thing is that the mushrooms be closed and completely fresh. Most often, tiny button mushrooms are used and kept whole, but you...
The cream vinaigrette works well with endive. Freshly roasted walnut pieces marry well with the rest of the flavors, and you can turn the salad into...
Very thin leeks, because of their suitability to this dish, are called poireaux vinaigrette. Usually they are served on their own rather than as part...
In France as in Italy and certain other places, beets are commonly sold already cooked, making them very handy for the cook. Raw beets, unpeeled...
This is usually prepared with mayonnaise and Dijon mustard and called céleri rémoulade, even though the gherkins, capers, and other classic...
This salad is simply a mix of grated carrots with mustard vinaigrette. Depending especially...
In place of the crème fraîche used in France and not always available elsewhere, I mix sweet...
This French basic is seldom found in cookbooks, perhaps because it’s taken for granted. It adds a welcome richness but can overpower salads made...
At the restaurant Chez Émile in Toulouse, the cassoulets are assembled in advance, each in its cassole, the traditional ceramic dish, with only the...
A financier is an excellent way to use up egg whites without the trouble of whisking them into “snow.” Some financier recipes ...
Scapece is Italian for fish or vegetables fried and preserved for a short time in vinegar along with mint and often garlic and other aromatic...
This version of lemon chiffon pie calls for a sabayon (or zabaione), an egg-yolk foam, which is further lightened with whipped cream. According to the...
This dish of Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta is the Italian counterpart to the fondue of France and Switzerland. Where fondue is made with...
The aromas of caramel and buttery crust are so complementary that as this tart bakes you smell them as one. Success depends ...
The recipe for almond cream for the galette des Rois is a compromise between crème d’amandes, which contains no pastry cream, and frangipane...
Rye flour, like wheat flour, is milled using a series of grindings and siftings. First the grain...
In this traditional Syrian Christian recipe from the South Indian state Kerala, beef is massaged with vinegar and chile, turmeric, coriander, fennel and...
At Gramercy Tavern in New York City, the spiced meat for the goat meatballs is freshly ground before they are cooked to order on the...
Between the two sorts of nonflaky crusts, sablée and sucrée, a sandy one seems to me pointless, crumbly rather than satisfyingly crunchy...
Essential for tender flakiness is mixing the dough only as much as needed and keeping it cool as you work, placing the dough in the...
Fill the bottom half of a double boiler about three-quarters full of water — so that the boiling water won’t touch the top pot. Set...
This is my Aunt Azra’s recipe. She is a fantastic cook and I can feel her generosity in every moreish mouthful of the kheer she...
Amrakhand is a quintessential western Indian dish served either as a summer dessert or as a side dish with puris (puffed whole-wheat flatbread). Full-fat yogurt...
The success of this ice naturally depends on the beans, the roast, and the brewing, and it’s hard to make any comment on those without...
In making ice cream, honey isn’t cooked, so it retains all its fine flavor — assuming the beekeeper or honey processor didn’t heat it to...
Petits pots de crème present good chocolate in a particularly luscious form. Whether you prefer 60 percent, 70 percent, or a higher percentage chocolate...
To be more or less regionally consistent, the prunes for this cold-weather combination would come from Agen, which, like the village of Roquefort,...
Along with asparagus, morels, and a few other items, rhubarb is one of the ritual foods of spring. The old-farm rhubarb plants I’ve known in...
Along France’s many rivers, forcemeats are a way to deal with impossibly bony fish, like pike. You see this not only in the airy and...
The main ingredient in a fish pâté is the farce mousseline, a delicate creamy purée of raw fish, which is also a major component of...
Delicate mousseline forcemeats, which are closely related to quenelles and fish pâtés but without the starch of the panade, can be...
The classic French crayfish sauce, sauce Nantua, a frequent companion to quenelles, is a béchamel finished with crayfish butter and cream...
The kababs are more common in the northern parts of India. So in that sense this is not a typical dish from ...
The best clafoutis, the cherry-filled flan from the French region of Limousin, is powerfully, directly inflated ...
A pescajoune is a pancake, typically lightened by beaten egg whites and, in perhaps its oldest form, made ...
In the days of roasting before a fire, Yorkshire pudding was cooked on the hearth, in a pan placed beneath the meat to catch the...
A San Francisco classic, cioppino was likely brought to the Bay Area by Italian immigrants in the late 19th century...
Za’atar, or wild thyme, is easy to find growing on the hilltops and mountains of Lebanon. The plant is distinctive and gives off a strong...
Well-made, it’s the lightest of pastries: crisp thin leaves of buttery richness with brown wheaty flavors from the golden surface, each ...
This dough is useful for various European flatbreads that once were, and in some cases still are, baked directly on the hearth of a fireplace...
Pomegranate molasses is thick, dark syrup prepared by lengthy simmering of pomegranate juice. It can be found in markets all over Syria, but cooking with...
This is a simple dish of pickled turnips, onions, and cumin. It is normally served as part of a mezze, and sometimes as a side...
Eggs, parsley, mint, garlic, and onion are the few simple ingredients that are combined in these delicious bite-size omelets. They are prepared in...
Black carrots are grown mainly in Turkey, the Middle East, and the Far East. In Aleppo they are plentiful during the winter season and are...
Drain the wheat berries and place them in a pot over high heat with 4 cups (1 liter) water. Add the cinnamon sticks. Bring to...
This is an old, festive dessert that was common in the Ottoman Topkapi palace in the sixteenth century. It was served at weddings, birth celebrations,...
Brioche is less messy and difficult to make than many people think: it is perhaps the form of bread that is easiest for a home...
A little Cognac underlines the pear taste of plain cooked pears. Among common varieties, I prefer Comice or Bartlett ...
The most refreshing ice, and the easiest to eat, is slushy firm. I like a texture that is not just slightly loose but also grainy...
Cornmeal sweets appear in, among other places, the Basque country of France and Spain and the Piedmont and Veneto of Italy...
Honey complements lemon. I use a light-flavored honey for this flan, but you may prefer a strong floral honey, such as lavender or ...
The idea is a thin tart, not too sweet, with a high proportion of crust, the soft crunch of nuts contrasting with the honey-egg binding...
This appears in Vermont Maple Recipes by Mary Pearl, a spiral-bound book that was apparently self-published, in 1952...
Unlike most versions of the classic Piedmontese hazelnut cake, this one is made without flour and is leavened solely by beaten egg whites...
I’m ambivalent about cake. French génoise, a cake with substantial texture meant to withstand being soaked with flavored sugar syrup...
The success of this tart depends in part on the contrast in texture of the coffee custard and the flaky crust...
The name is evocative but misleading: good Barolo costs too much for anyone to cook with a whole bottle of it. Instead...
Like chocolate in general, this goes very well with a glass of Banyuls or Maury wine...
A chocolate soufflé can taste monotonously chocolatey, unless you take care to give it a luscious texture and add a sauce...
A mousse is not one of the most chocolatey desserts, because of the foam. That can come from whipped sweet cream, whipped crème fraîche...
The dough is essentially Escoffier’s and is much easier to make than you might imagine...
Usually today, vitello tonnato takes the form of dry slices of veal accompanied by a tuna mayonnaise. The original...
The methods for Italian scallopini recipes are not at all fixed — some recipes for saltimbocca are identical to some for uccelletti scappati...
If veal scallops are floured before cooking, they’re more tender, although also more bland, since the flour prevents the meat and juices ...
The various northern Italian recipes for rolled-up thin slices of veal form a loose group, including uccelletti scappati (birds that have flown)...
Sautéed veal kidneys in mustard sauce is one of the most typical old Paris bistro plates...
A navarin, though the original calls for mutton, is excellent with flavorful lamb. The name refers to navets...
Burgundy’s jambon à la crème and jambon au Chablis are closely allied to its saupiquet. Each consists of slices of ham, fried (originally in lard)...
The Rhone River boatmen have disappeared, but they leave behind a reputation for certain dishes, including matelotes (red-wine-and-onion fish stews) and...
Figà a la venexiana (to use the Venetian rather than the Italian name) — liver and onions sparked with lemon, wine, or vinegar...
Maria Piera Querio, chef of the Locanda dell’Arco in the Alta Langa village of Cissone, in Piedmont, gave me this recipe...
Choucroute garnie, a cool-weather dish from Alsace, varies from place to place and cook to cook...
There’s more than one version of this French sauce, which goes especially well with roasted or grilled pork but also with boiled or roasted lamb...
Roasting is cooking by radiant heat. In its pure form that means in front of, not over, a fire, where a large cut requiring long...
This recipe is based on the dish as I saw it made in 1980 at the former bistro La Marmite in Tours...
Meatballs, polpette, are made all over Italy, commonly with additions such as garlic, parsley, grating cheese, and forms of cured pork...
The flavor of this dish, associated with the South of France, depends heavily on the olives, so be sure to taste before you buy...
This old French dish is a counterpart to duck à l’orange and, like it, is often made cloyingly sweet...
The name of this Alsatian stew means “bake oven”; the dish used to be assembled at home...
The cabbage-partridge combination is especially good. Traditional French perdrix aux choux calls for tough older birds and long cooking...
Guinea fowl, native to Africa, are always farmed in Europe and North America. As with most other domesticated poultry, the meat...
These Lyonnais “cakes” are actually flans whose custard is typically thickened with béchamel or bread soaked in milk and then lightened with...
For tender, juicy meat, a braise requires gentle cooking. If you’re cooking on top of the stove rather than in the oven, very gentle...
The peas for this dish should be very freshly picked and at the height of their season — not at all starchy. The simple combination...
Signora Antolini’s wild mushroom ragù is a recipe I come back to over and over again, especially in wintertime...
Rabbit is cooked with prunes in southwest France as well as in the north, where the dish is sometimes called à la flamande...
The most common version of rabbit with mustard is made simply by preparing lapin à la crème (rabbit in white wine with cream)...
Lapin is the French word for rabbit, but the rabbits commonly cooked are farmed and young and are properly called lapereaux, a word that...
In French cooking, when you think of rabbit in red wine, what springs to mind is the civet with its last-minute enrichment...
This modern Belgian summer dish combines elements of the carbonade à la gueuze and of rabbit with prunes. Here the fruit is cherries...
Gueuze is a younger, effervescent form of lambic, the otherwise flat Belgian beer brewed with wild yeast, which gives distinctive flavors...
Coq au vin, a variable dish, appears in much of France and under various names. In Alsace, it’s coq au riesling with cream and mushrooms...
The simplicity of this chowder shows off excellent finnan haddie, a smoked fish now so scarce in North America ...
This recipe makes fairly mild but flavorful cakes. You can control the level of sourness, which is most notable when the starter ...
Chicken Rizala, in its base masala uses a modest five ingredients: ginger, garlic, green chile, coriander powder, and turmeric ...
Though garam masalas vary significantly according to region, this Bhopali version will serve perfectly well for most North Indian ...
Fish chowder tastes best if you start with a whole haddock, weighing about four pounds, so you can make a fish broth or court bouillon...
This is mostly about the sauce. You may wish to cut the sprouts in half to allow the sauce to seep into the layers...
This stew will remind you of chowder. In fact, in form it is a chowder, and if you have a favorite way to make chowder,...
The distinction between this, also known as sauce bordelaise, and its red-wine counterpart in Burgundy was that the latter was made with wine...
There’s nothing difficult about making brown veal stock and reducing it to a glaze, but it takes hours, and so it’s best to make large...
The forerunner of this antipasto from Piedmont in Italy was probably peppers with anchovy sauce; both are still made and are excellent...
English fennel sauce, for salmon and other fish, is based on English butter sauce, and since this version omits the usual flour, it’s really...
Venetian sardele in saor is a typical summer dish, eaten either as a cicheto, a snack, or as a main course...
This recipe is Catalan, but around the Mediterranean, the method is an old one for preserving fish briefly when they are cheap, abundant...
Beer batter is classical French. In some older versions the beer is intended as leavening and the batter is set in a warm place to...
These fried salt cod cakes would fit into the cooking of various parts of the world, though the recipe happens to come from New England...
For this, you need fresh hyssop, a perennial herb with spikes of fine, small, edible blue-purple flowers, which are good in a salad...
The predecessor of canned tuna in oil, a 19th-century innovation that at its best is extremely good, was tuna cooked with a large amount...
Sicilian zucca all’agrodolce is also called fegato di Settecannoli (or ficatu ri sette cannoli in Sicilian) — liver from Settecannoli...
This zucchini pudding, a complement to grilled meats, combines two elements from Richard Olney’s essential Simple French Food...
This onion condiment, really a concentrated version of cipolline in agrodolce will keep, refrigerated, for...
The combination of sweet and sour isn’t common in Italian cooking, but it’s essential to certain preparations, and I’m fascinated by it...
Celery root, or celeriac, with its strong flavor, is often mixed with potato in a white purée, which goes well with meats, especially...
Calçots, which originated in the town of Valls in Catalonia, Spain, are a particular kind of onion, hilled up as they grow to have a...
New potatoes are ready, and best, when the plants blossom in early summer. Even floury varieties have an appealing waxy tenderness then...
These fried cakes, oddly named for a malicious 19th-century stage character, are especially good with grilled lean meat...
These potatoes are so good, such a superior partner to roast lamb or beef, that they may be the only vegetable...
Erba means “greens”; -one means “big.” The pie, from Reggio in the Italian region of Emilia, is made...
The simple combination of eggplant and tomato excludes the squash and red bell pepper of ratatouille, which by comparison is a confused...
Chouée is always very popular and almost impossible to make badly. It’s just boiled cabbage mashed with butter and, optionally, boiled potatoes...
The beginning of asparagus season happily overlaps the end of citrus season. Traditionally, the sole purpose of sauce maltaise (hollandaise with fresh blood-orange juice)...
These are French-style œufs brouillés, cooked slowly with constant stirring to achieve the sensual consistency of smooth custard with only a few soft...
Standard French bistro fare includes an often-substantial first-course salad based on chicorée frisée, curly chicory, also known...
When I serve a lettuce salad, I almost always put it between the main course and cheese, if any. There’s no compelling reason why ...
Orange salads, which can open or close a meal, are typical of both Sicily and Spain. The oranges should be slightly tart, to play...
This salad appears in the bilingual Vieilles Recettes de Cuisine Provençale, or Vieii Receto de Cousino Prouvençalo, by C. Chanot-Bullier, about the food ...
The combination may sound boring, but it isn’t. I learned it from Lucy DiNapoli, whose mother came from Catania, Sicily...
These Burgundian poached eggs are colored mahogany by the meurette sauce, whose key ingredients are red wine and onions...
Fondue requires the standard equipment: an enameled cast-iron or glazed ceramic pot to set over a flame, a stand to hold it with a burner...
Just-made cheese is primordial food, and yet — at least in North America — few people have tasted it; they don’t know the delicate texture...
Beurre blanc, the famous Loire Valley sauce typically served with poached fish, especially brochet (pike), sandre (pike-perch), and salmon, is made...
Close kin to the familiar basil pesto, salsa di noci also comes from the Italian Riviera and was originally always made in a mortar...
Even around Bologna, basic ragù has infinite variations: this is one. The historic region of Emilia, of which Bologna is the largest city...
Puccia, from Piedmont in northern Italy, is in origin a poor person’s one-dish meal. Eat it hot in soup plates, or chill it in an...
Tuscan food is straightforward, rustic, and frugal. In contrast with most northern Italian pasta, in which egg is mixed with soft wheat flour (not durum)...
The savory gougère, its crunchy outside contrasting with the tender inside, is made in various parts of France but associated especially with Burgundy...
The Ligurian seaside resort town of Recco specializes in this cheese focaccia, which, unlike the usual kind, contains no yeast...
The French region of Anjou is known for its market gardens and river fish, and yet three of the province’s most emblematic foods are full...
I use flavorful Gruyère or strong Cheddar in this soufflé, though other cheeses can also be good. I’ve always found soufflés easy to make, which...
Cervelle de canut, “brain of a silk worker,” is an essential Lyonnais food, named for the city’s silk weavers, whose number peaked in...
Other pasta sauces are as good, but none is better. This creamy pesto from the city of Trapani in westernmost Sicily is partly like...
Schiacciata, which literally means “flattened” or “squashed,” is a kind of focaccia. Even in places where the dominant bread was big and round...
I’ve lost track of the origins of this soup, which might have been my own innovation. It uses vin jaune, the unusual, very dry white...
This cherry soup from the Franche-Comté in eastern France is not, as it may sound, a dessert, but a first course...
Some of the most richly flavored soups of all are onion. Some are purposefully pale, but deep flavor comes from ...
Soups of fresh, sweet green peas, cooked nearly like petits pois à la laitue but puréed and called purées, are very Parisian...
A potée is a country dish of vegetables, especially cabbage and potatoes, with sausage or another form of cured pork, and often...
The depth of flavor in slowly cooked Cajun dishes comes partly from a Cajun brown roux, which is cooked very dark, almost burnt, so that...
This summer soup is adapted from the cookbook La Cucina del Piemonte by Giovanni Goria, published in 1990, where it is given the dialect name...
Once, wherever chestnut trees grew, the nuts were important food for the poor, and yet their taste is luxurious...
According to the 1962 cookbook Chez Maxim’s: Secrets and Recipes from the World’s Most Famous Restaurant...
There’s no better way to cook extremely fresh mussels than à la marinière, which is simply mussels steamed open in white wine...
Closely related to this Maryland crab soup is Charleston’s she-crab soup, prepared in winter when the female crabs are filled with roe...
Other good things can be done with snails, but none is more pleasing in its simplicity and jolt of flavor than classic snails in garlic...
The velvety texture of a well-made crème caramel comes from careful cooking that leaves the custard free of bubbles...
Contact with hot fat is necessary to release paprika’s pigment, but its natural sugar means this must be done quickly and carefully to avoid burning...
This versatile vegetable dish, second only to gulyás in the Hungarian gastronomic canon, is actually of Serbian origin. ...
A quick cabbage soup usually gets much of its flavor from cured pork, such as smoked sausage...
This basic soup relies for thickening only on the puréed carrots themselves. Like so many other vegetables, the carrots in regular supermarkets...
Homage to the late-summer vegetable garden, the combination of carrot and tomato is excellent, with sweetness coming from one ...
Unless you have perfectly fresh asparagus, peel it to bring the taste closer to just-picked. I prefer that a soup have its own inherent consistency...
Originally an Easter dish, this is Burgundy’s favorite and best-known charcuterie item, and it’s still popular at Easter, when it contains...
Like so much other charcuterie, the varied forms of headcheese surely originate in the need to make quick use of spare parts ...
The cervelas lyonnais is a wide sausage of succulence and delicacy (although somewhat changed by EU rules eliminating saltpeter)...
First a word about the cut of pork called in France échine, which must be the least known cut of any pig — and yet...
The world has seen plenty of tapenade, but maybe it hasn’t been said often enough that em>tapeno in Provençal means “caper,” and that...
When you make your own fresh sausage, you control the quality of the meat, the grind, the proportion of fat and all the rest...
These slightly peppery saucisses au vin blanc go very well with raw oysters, providing a contrast not only of flavor but of cold with hot...
The rillauds of Anjou, just like the rillons of Touraine, are large cubes of pork belly, salted briefly and then slowly cooked by themselves until...
Alla stemperata is a full-flavored Sicilian way to prepare swordfish or tuna (and sometimes rabbit or hare)...
This recipe for a pâté de campagne in the manner of the Chalosse area of the department of the Landes in southwest France comes...
The usual commercial mousse de foies, like related preparations of foie gras, cuts corners and is a way to use bits of perhaps inferior...
Once a common street food, farinata is a vast chickpea pancake, soft and floppy, baked in special heavy copper pans about a yard wide...
Mary Randolph published this recipe in her fine cookbook The Virginia Housewife, in 1824, before chemical baking powders transformed...
This Sicilian accompaniment to bread is a way to preserve eggplants. Its elaborate taste recalls the Arab influence on the island’s cooking...
Capers are flower buds, and those preserved in dry salt have the strongest, clearest floral taste; they’re far better than capers in vinegar...
This variable Provençal mixture for toasted or grilled slices of bread differs from the Piedmontese bagna cauda used for dipping raw vegetables...
One of the most underappreciated old preparations is a vegetable gratin made with white sauce — béchamel in French, balsamella in Italian...
This markedly flavorful and delicious tart mixes cream with raisinée and egg to make a form of flan. Raisinée is sweet apple or pear juice...
Consider “roasting” a chicken (or pheasant) in butter in a covered pot on top of the stove...
The batter for this rustic pudding, from the Quercy in southwest France, is essentially the same as that for crêpes, clafoutis, popovers...
Freshly roasted cashews (barely colored, just cooled) combine that very soft crunch, exceptional among nuts, with a distinctly buttery and faintly almond...
This recipe for roast goose or duck appears in Hank Shaw’s excellent cookbook "Duck, Duck, Goose"...
The notion that charcutiers use rillettes to rescue the bits of meat that stubbornly cling to pork bones was dispelled for me years ago...
This ketchup contains no added sugar at all. It began with the idea that during this peak moment our garden tomatoes ...
This recipe, more conservative than many of the combinations at Iñaki Aizpitarte’s praised Paris restaurant, presents something that’s...
The sweet-acid balance of this combination depends on the particular pears and wine; you could reserve a little of the sugar and taste and adjust...
Once on a winter day I visited the talented Christine Ferber, master of all things sweet, in her workshop in the Alsatian village of Niedermorschwihr...
To the 16th-century Italian chef Bartolomeo Scappi, “zambaglione” was an egg yolk–wine mixture cooked over water to the consistency of “a thick broth”...
Traditional Welsh rabbit contains very few ingredients, and certainly no flour or egg that would make the sauce hold together more securely...
A gratin d’épinards, made with good old creamed spinach, goes well with grilled steak and other meats. The following proportions yield extra...
A perfect but crazy dessert for the height of rose season. You need highly scented roses — lots and lots of them...
With this recipe, the bland, fleshy stalks of chard are boosted by a very savory sauce that, depending on your expectations when...
When peas are ready and new potatoes have formed underground in spring or early summer, that’s the time for peas and new potatoes with sweet...