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No. 94  Bagna Caoda

The Song of Bagna Caoda: The Story and the Making of Piedmont’s Great Cold-Weather Sauce  John Irving
Food in South Africa (with Lessons in Conversation from Nelson Mandela) Charlene Smith
Old-Fashioned Sour Cakes in the Buckwheat Belt of West Virginia  Holly Jennings
No Respect: Jack Czarnecki’s Uphill Battle to Put Oregon Truffles on the Culinary Map  John Grossmann
Hangover Soup: Making Patsa on the Peloponnesos  Alexis Marie Adams
Six Addresses: Venice  Marisa Huff

Wine Reviews “Harmonie” Champagne from Franck Pascal   Resources The Latest Best Automatic Drip Coffee Maker Book Reviews Jura Wine, Yoshoku and Chuka, The Modern Peasant, Cooking with Fire, and Defending Beef

No. 93  Croissants

The Culture of Butter: Is Cultured Butter Better? James MacGuire
Crisp, Tender, Old-Fashioned Croissants James MacGuire
Farming a Better-Tasting Potato: The Lessons of Dry Land John Grossmann
High and Dry: Recreating Traditional Balsamic Vinegar in New Mexico Zora O’Neill
Horseradish  Anthony Boutard
Six Addresses: Toronto Mitchell Davis and Bonnie Stern

Wine Reviews Lorchhäuser Seligmacher Riesling from Eva Fricke, “TragoLargo” Alicante from Rafa Bernabé Resources Mosel Wine (the website), Chicago ’Nduja  Restaurant Reviews The Sportsman in Whitstable, Kent, England; Natural Wine Bars in Paris  Book Reviews Seaweeds, The Sea Vegetable Book, and Extreme Greens plus Eat, Native Wine Grapes of Italy, and Bitter

No. 92  Modern Food

Modern Food: Where Are We Headed Now? Edward Behr
Cucina Bianca John Irving
Northern Flint Corn Anthony Boutard
A Visit to Varsos, Or Back to Sixties Athens Diana Farr Louis
Six Addresses: Hong Kong Georgia Freedman

Wine Reviews Pinot Noir from Folk Machine, Reynard from Thierry Allemand  Recipes Winter salads: Carrots, Cabbage, Celery root, Beets, Leeks, Endive, Green Lentils, Cucumbers, Champignons à la grècque, Mustard vinaigrette, Cream vinaigrette   Notes and Resources 50 Foods, Highbush Cranberries   Restaurant Review Ramen Shop in Oakland   Book Reviews Sauces & Shapes, The New California Wine, The Gramercy Tavern Cookbook, The World of Sicilian Wine   Short List The Hakka Cookbook, Roots, Schmaltz, and Adventures on the Wine Route

No. 91  The Fish Pepper of Maryland

The Fish Pepper of Maryland Sam Hiersteiner
Real Old-Fashioned Blanquette de Veau Jamie Schler
Rooted in Verduno: A Glass of Pelaverga Levi Dalton
New American Chocolate Makers Rebecca Flint Marx
Babas and Savarins James MacGuire
A New England Pot of Beans: Yellow Eyes and Marfax Melissa Pasanen
Six Addresses: Ho Chi Minh City Georgia Freedman

Wine Reviews Dhroner Hofberg Riesling Feinherb from A.J. Adam, Pommard from Huber-Verdereau   Notes and Resources The Feiring Line, Donabe Rice Cooker   Restaurant Reviews Commander’s Palace and Galatoire’s in New Orleans, Cotes Market in Lowell, Massachusetts   Book Reviews Popes, Peasants, and Shepherds   Short List The Perfect Peach, The Kimchi Cookbook, Bread, and Sherry, Manzanilla & Montilla

No. 90  Jean-Pierre Moullé

A Quiet Effect: Jean-Pierre Moullé at Chez Panisse Justin Bolois
The Yarra Valley: Australia’s Next Wine Wave? Kristine Kowalchuk
How to Cook a Lobster John Grossmann
Akara: African Fast Food John Thorne
Improved by the Cold: Parsnips and Brussels Sprouts Sandy Oliver
Aged Eggnog Holly Jennings
Six Addresses: Berlin Luisa Weiss

Wine Reviews Rebula from Kabaj, Vecchia Modena Lambrusco di Sorbara from Cleto Chiarli   Wine Comment Matching Food with Wine   Notes and ResourcesSoy Sauce Pot, A Precisionist Tea Kettle   Restaurant Reviews Rouge Tomate in New York City, Yingjiang-Style Dai Flavor Restaurant and Red Bean Garden Fish Farmstead in Yunnan, China   Book Reviews Acetaria, Essential Pepin, Me’a Kai   Short List The Family Meal, The Art of Fermentation, The Truck Food Cookbook, and The Blue Bottle Craft of Coffee

No. 89  The Greek Issue

Mastiha Diana Farr Louis
In Pursuit of the Cheese of the Skin: Shepherd Cheesemaking in Tsakonia Alexis Marie Adams
Olive Oil: Tasting the Differences (Letter from Tuscany) Nancy Harmon Jenkins
Weir Fishing for the Last Sardine Cannery in North America Peter Smith
Big Oak Casks Derrick Schneider
Curing Olives on Crete Manousos Daskalogiannis and Nicole Lachanas

Wine Reviews Meditazione from Channing Daughters, Dreadnought from Man O’ War   Notes and Resources Black Fruit (The Traditional Taste of Provençal and Almost All Olive Oil), Muesli   Restaurant Review Tortilleria Nixtamal in Queens  Book Reviews The Food of Spain, Cooking with Chocolate, Ruhlman’s Twenty, The Beekeeper’s Bible   Short List Ilimpa’chi’, Serious Eats, An Everlasting Meal, Tuscany

No. 88  Central Texas Barbecue

Cooking by Feel: Central Texas Barbecue Jordan Mackay
Caviar Jeff Cox
Two French Cabbage Recipes: Chou farci and Chou rouge au châtaignes Edward Behr and James MacGuire
Raspberries: The Taste of Home-Grown Lee Reich
Quince: The Perfumed Fruit Melissa Pasanen

Wine Reviews Fino Inocente from Bodegas Valdespino, Outis, Etna Rosso from Vini Biondi   Notes and Resources The Art of Eating Cookbook: Essential Recipes from the First 25 Years   Restaurant Reviews Kajitsu in New York, Camino in Oakland   Book Reviews Mouneh: Preserving Foods for the Lebanese Pantry; Dictionnaire universel du pain; Naked Wine: Letting Grapes Do What Comes Naturally; and Earthly Delights from the Garden of France: Wines of the Loire, Volume I, The Kingdom of Sauvignon

No. 87  Considering Dessert

Norman Farm-Made Cider Charles Neal
A Point of View in Pastry: Shuna Fish Lydon Edward Behr
When They’re Black, They’re Done: The Cannelés of Bordeaux Molly Wizenberg
Making Baklava in Gaziantep Diana Farr Louis
Biscotti di Prato Pamela Sheldon Johns
Crème Anglaise Lesley Chesterman
Brioche James MacGuire
Where Is Dessert Headed? Mitchell Davis
Asparago Violetto di Albenga John Irving

Wine Reviews Nonvintage Brut, Montlouis sur Loire from François Chidaine; La Passion, Coteaux du Layon from Domaine de Juchepie   Notes and ResourcesWinter Squash Seed Oils   Restaurant Reviews Sandbox Bakery in San Francisco  Book Reviews Noma: Time and Place in Nordic Cusine; Secrets of the Sommeliers; Italy Dish by Dish

No. 86  Really Good Goat Cheese

Pushing to a Delicate Extreme: The Cheeses of Soyoung Scanlan Edward Behr
Cooking the Kill Ian Knauer
Madeira is History – Long Live Madeira! Derrick Schneider
Trahana: The World’s Oldest Instant Soup? Diana Farr Louis
The Red Spice: Hungarian Paprika Petra Tanos
Market Day in Cholula Deborah Madison

Wine Reviews Nonvintage Brut Champagne from José Dhondt, Señorío de P. Peciña Rioja Reserva from Bodegas Hermanos Peciña   Notes and Resources Black Currant Jam, Chocovivo Chocolate   Restaurant Reviews Spinasse in Seattle, Osteria da Gemma and La Torre in Piedmont   Book Reviews Thai Street Food, Keys to Good Cooking   Short List Kansha: Celebrating Japan’s Vegan and Vegetarian Traditions, The Southern Foodways Alliance Community Cookbook, and La Cuisine (Françoise Bernard)

No. 85  Bangkok’s Shophouses

Bangkok’s Shophouses (with three recipes) Jarrett Wrisley
The Flavor of Stone: The Wines of Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine David Lillie
A Better Fish Farm: Veta la Palma in Andalusia Lisa Abend
Eels on the Whanganui River Melissa Pasanen
Classic French Sauces James MacGuire

Wine Reviews Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett from Christoffel, Fiano di Avellino from Pietracupa   Notes and Resources the tomato press, Baldwin orchard ladders, and uncompromising cidre de glace (ice cider)   Restaurant Review Hunan in Philadelphia   Book Reviews Khunti Korai: Bangladeshi Cuisine, The Tea Enthusiast’s Handbook   Short List The Country Cooking of Ireland, Forgotten Skills of Cooking, Food Sake Tokyo, Mastering the Art of Chinese Cooking

No. 84  The State of Pork

The State of Pork: Pigs, Iowa, Corn, and Pasture Edward Behr
Recipes: Pork with Prunes and a Meatless Spring Cabbage Soup Edward Behr and James Macguire
The Lost Fishery: Shad in California Hank Shaw
The Value of Wild Plants Melissa Pasanen
In Galilee: Lunch with Erez Komarovsky Mitchell Davis

Wine Review Sottobosco vino frizzante rosso from Cà de Noci   Notes and Resources Lettuce, the new wine magazine Tong, saving sourdough, trouble in the Mosel Valley   Restaurant Review Casamento’s in New Orleans   Book ReviewsJapanese Kitchen Knives, Larousse Gastronomique   Short List Encyclopedia of Pasta, Collio, Canal House Cooking, Rhubarbaria

No. 83  Piedmont Beef

The Fair of the Fattened Ox in Carrù John Irving
Classic Piedmont Beef Recipes John Irving
Pain au Levain: The Best Flavor, Acidity, and Texture and Where They Come From (with a Recipe and How to Buy Pain au Levain) James MacGuire
Duck Hunt: In Search of California’s Perfect Wild Waterfowl Hank Shaw
Lingonberries Lee Reich
Lost and Found in the Woods: Funghi Porcini Nancy Harmon Jenkins

Wine Review Wylie-Fenaughty Syrah from Edmunds St. John   Notes and Resources Bannetons   Restaurant Reviews Chapter One in Dublin, Regional Mexican Places in the Bay Area   Book Reviews Puglia: A Culinary Memoir (new translation); Sicily: Culinary Crossroads (new translation); Au Revoir to All That: Food, Wine, and the End of France

No. 82  New Paris Bistros

New Ways to Be a Restaurant in Paris: The Casualization of Dining Bénédict Beaugéand Edward Behr
New Paris Recipes (Iñaki Aizpitarte, Guillaume Delage, Nicolas Scheidt)
Cucina Povera: Street Food in Naples John Irving
The Mechanics of Terroir Derrick Schneider
Paximadia: Cretan Twice-Baked Bread Diana Farr Louis
Crunch: Chapulines (Crickets, Grasshoppers, and Locusts), a Mexican Delicacy Corinna Sargood
Alici di Menaica: Pisciotta’s Big Little Fish Winnie Yang

Wine Review St. Julien from Domaine du Jaugaret   Notes and Resources Curing the “nail polish” in vinegar, further thoughts on Chablis   Restaurant Reviews Le Grand Couvert in Burgundy, Antico Colle in Tuscany   Book Reviews Helen’s Hungarian Heritage Recipes, A Tradition of Soup: Flavors from China’s Pearl River Delta

No. 81  Burgundy II: Chablis

Chablis Edward Behr
A Few Recipes from Burgundy, Suited to a Glass of Chablis Edward Behr and James MacGuire

Wine Review Le Fief du Breil (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine) from Domaine de la Louvetrie   Restaurant Reviews Sally’s Apizza in New Haven, Parker Pie Co. in Vermont   Notes and Resources Parmigiano-Reggiano and Valpolicella, update on saltpeter   Book Reviews YOLELE! Recipes from the Heart of Senegal; Dizionario Delle Cucine Regionali Italiane   Short List What We Eat When We Eat Alone, Les Cuisines de la critique gastronomique

No. 80  American Charcuterie

American Charcuterie: The Cooked Winnie Yang
Pâté de Campagne, Rillettes de Tours, and Other Recipes Edward Behr and James MacGuire
Mâche: A Salad for the Cold Season Barbara Damrosch
Black Currants Melissa Pasanen

Wine Review La Châtelaine (Bourgogne Vézelay) from Domaine de la Cadette  Notes and Resources Culture magazine, Nonsweet Red-Wine Vinegar, Buckwheat Honey, Tennessee Ham and Bacon   Restaurant Review Tia Sophia in Sante Fe  Book Reviews Terrine, Holy Smoke, Hearthside Cooking   Short List The New Mediterranean Diet Cookbook, The Heirloom Tomato

No. 79  Throwing the Rest Out: A Personal Selection of Cookbooks

Throwing the Rest Out: A Personal Selection of Cookbooks Edward Behr
West Coast Mussels Jeff Cox
Mussel Recipes Edward Behr and James MacGuire
Brown Sugar from Okinawa Hiroko Shimbo
Medlar: The Rotten Fruit Lee Reich
The Golden Spice: Saffron in Morocco Corinna Sargood

Wine Review Côt from Clos Roche Blanche   Notes and Resources Okinawa Brown Sugar, Taza chocolate   Restaurant Review Da Maria in Fano, The Marche  Book Reviews The Professional Barista’s Handbook, A Late Dinner, Alinea

No. 78  Andouillette

The Andouillette of Troyes: Primary Sausage Edward Behr
Fishing for Avgotaraho Diana Farr Louis
Salentine Home Cooking John Irving
Foraging for Clams on Block Island Hank Shaw
Velveting, Deep-Frying, Stir-Frying, and General Tso’s Chicken Ed Schoenfeld

Wine Review Les Malgagnes from Yannick Amirault   Notes and Resources Avgotaraho, “My Big, Expensive, Stainless-Steel Stove”   Book Reviews Beaneaters & Bread Soup; Mouth Wide Open; Grains, Greens, and Grated Coconuts; The Wines of Burgundy

No. 77  Island Sheep

Island Sheep: Keeping Flocks Down East Sam Hayward
The Berber Tree of Life and the Acrobatic Goats (Argan Oil) Corinna Sargood
The Palm Honey of La Gomera Tara Stevens

Wine Review Chateau Musar   Notes and Resources Argan Oil, A Handwrought Gridiron, True Buttermilk, the Technivorm   Restaurant Reviews Pizzeria Mozza in Los Angeles, Morandi and Balthazar in New York, Le Petit Nice in Marseille, Antica Osteria dei Mosto in Ne   Book Reviews Oxford Companion to Italian Food, Vingt Plats qui donnent la goutte, Le Trésor de la cuisine du bassin méditerranéen par 70 médecins de France, The Story of Tea, Tea, The Sushi Experience, Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art (with a brief sushi glossary)

No. 76  Anglianico del Vulture

Aglianico del Vulture: Wine (and Food) in Basilicata Edward Behr
Tastes Like Rabbit Derrick Schneider
Rabbit Recipes, Mostly French James MacGuire

Notes and Resources Old-fashioned High-carbon Nogent Knives, Pruneaux d’Agen   Restaurant Reviews Buco dell’Orafo in Florence, Momofuku Ssäm Bar in New York   Book Reviews Cucina del Sole: A Celebration of Southern Italian Cooking; What to Drink with What You Eat; My Bombay Kitchen

No. 75  Cloth-Bound Vermont Cheddar

Cloth-Bound: Cabot Creamery, Jasper Hill Farm, and an Older, Better Way to Age Vermont Cheddar Edward Behr
True Wasabi Rowan Jacobsen
The Lamb of Quercy David Downie
The Most Famous Fatback in the World: Lardo di Colonnata Edward Behr

Notes and Resources Three Southern Honeys: Sourwood, Gallberry, and Tupelo   Recipes Stewed rhubarb with honey, Lemon honey flan, Hazelnut honey cake, Honey ice cream   Restaurant Reviews Pilar in Napa, Blaue Gans in New York   Book Reviews The Wines of France; Heston Blumenthal: In Search of Perfection;Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook

No. 73 + 74  20th Anniversary Issue

Questioning Myself Edward Behr
California Olive Oil: Entering a Golden Age Jeff Cox
Truffles, White and Black David Downie
Recipes: Chestnut Soup, Sausages for Oysters, Salmon Soufflé, Polpette
Gallery: Abenaki Flint Corn (Ruth and Roy Fair) Ethan Hubbard
What Does It Mean Now That a Winemaker Can Select the Structure of a Wine?: The Lessons of Clark Smith and Vinovation Derrick Schneider
The Baguette James MacGuire
The Shining Drink: Mead Endures Rowan Jacobsen

Restaurant Reviews Michel Bras in Laguiole; Ducasse, Robuchon, and Le Veau d’Or in New York   Notes and Resources A Precise Kitchen Scale   Book ReviewsTartine, PH 10, The Science of Wine, Perfect Pairings, The Cooking of Southwest France

No. 72  Wines of the Jura

A Particular Taste: Vin Jaune and Other Traditional Wines of the Jura Edward Behr
Addresses in the Franche-Comté Edward Behr
Mexican Vanilla: Sketches in Papantla Corinna Sargood
A Taste by Any Other Name: Umami Comes West Rowan Jacobsen

Recipes Squash soup with vin Jaune, Potée jurasienne, Poulet au vin jaune et aux morilles   Notes and Resources Garlic   Book Review Uncommon Fruits for Every Garden

No. 71  Olympia Oysters

Olympia Oysters Jeff Cox
Riesling in the Mosel Valley Derrick Schneider
Unsalted Italian Bread David Downie

Recipes Sauce Maltaise, Turnip gratin, Zucchini pudding, Coffee tart
Notes and Resources Il Teatro del Sale, Oyster Knives, Wellfleets, Joe Beef
Book Reviews La Bonne Cuisine de Madame E. Saint-Ange; The Silver Spoon; Turning the Tables; The Secret Life of Lobsters; Washoku: Recipes from the Japanese Home Kitchen

No. 70  Gruyère de Comté

Gruyère de Comté: High Pastures, Joint Efforts, and a Big Mountain Cheese Edward Behr
Achingly Ripe: Tropical Fruit in Homestead, Florida Rowan Jacobsen
A Higher Authorty? Science and the Pursuit of a Perfect Hard-Cooked Egg, Roast Chicken, and Flaky Pie Crust Melissa Pasanen
Italy’s Local Markets David Downie

Recipes Soupe aux Cerises, Fondue   Notes and Resources Dried Corn   Book Reviews How-to Bread Books; Cheese; The Centaur’s Kitchen; Fried Chicken; Apple Pie;Hamburgers & Fries

No. 69  Contemporary Restaurants in Montreal

Another Way of Being Up To Date: Contemporary Restaurants in Montreal Edward Behr
Burgundy’s Charolais Beef David Downie
Maine Fish Chowder Nancy Harmon Jenkins
Patience Gray Edward Behr
Comment: The Revolution in Wine is Not That Simple Patrick Matthews

Recipes Laitue à l’ancienne (Old-fashioned dressing for lettuce), Cretons   Notes and Resources Roasting and the Clockjack, A New York Restaurant Update   Book Reviews Mes Tartes; Cooking Weeds: A Vegetarian Cookery Book; On Food and Cooking

No. 68  Why, Where, and What to Eat in New York: Part II, Food Shopping

Why, Where, and What to Eat in New York: Part II, Food Shopping Mitchell Davis
The Best Red-Wine Vinegar You’re Likely to Find is the One You Make Yourself Edward Behr
Tasting Wisconsin: The Influence of a Single Chef Amy Trubek
The Dilemma of Foie Gras Derrick Schneider

Recipes Onions in agrodolce, Braised pork with vinegar, Sauce piquante   Notes and Resources Tuscan Olive Oil, Shagbark Hickory Nuts, Shagbark Hickory Syrup  Book Reviews The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating; Country Scrapple: An American Tradition

No. 67  Beaujolais: The Goal of a Gulpable Wine

Beaujolais: The Goal of a Gulpable Wine Edward Behr
Hunting for California Terroir: Western Paso Robles Derrick Schneider

Recipes Cervelle de Canut (fresh cheese with fresh herbs); Gateau de Foies de Volaille (chicken liver flan or custard); Rognons de Veau à la Moutarde (sautéed veal kidneys with white wine and mustard)   Book Reviews How to Run a Restaurant, second edition; Italian Easy: Recipes from the London River Café; The Fate of Family Farming; Recipes from Corsica

No. 66  Why, Where, and What to Eat in New York: Part I

Why, Where, and What to Eat in New York: Part I, Restaurants Mitchell Davis
The Genovese Basil of Prà David Downie

Recipes Smoked sturgeon with scrambled eggs and onions, Falafel, Spinach in sesame dressing   Notes and Resources Smoked Fish from Acme in Brooklyn, More Cheese from Vermont   Book Reviews Pierre Gagnaire: Reflections on Culinary Artistry; The Cook’s Canon: 101 Classic Recipes Everyone Should Know; Zingerman’s Guide to Good Eating

No. 65  Sicily

Sicily: Meals at the Center of the Known World Edward Behr
Liguria’s Torta Salata David Downie
Precision Cuts: Japanese Knives, Western Chefs Mitchell Davis
Gallery: Barbecue Aaron Deemer

Recipes Pesto trapanese, Tonno o Pesce Spada (Tuna or Swordfish) alla stemperata, Zucca all’agrodolce (Sweet and Sour Winter Squash), Insalata di Arance, Zabaione  Notes and Resources Cleanliness, Freshness, and the Butter Wrapper; Capers in Dry Salt are Better; Cider Vinegar from Quebec; Coffee from George Howell Again  Book Reviews The Zuni Cafe Cookbook; The Good Cuisine: 208 Recipes Easy and Inspired; Cuisine Naturelle: Classics Redefined; Glorious French Food: A Fresh Approach to the French Classics; The Brewmaster’s Table: Discovering the Pleasures of Real Beer with Real Food; Giuliano Bugialli’s Foods of Naples and Campania

No. 64  Good Veal

Good Veal Edward Behr
The Roundup of Darjeeling Essentials Kevin Gascoyne
Gallery: Grenada Keith Chamberlin
Enough Saffron to Cover a Sixpence: The Pleasures and Challenge of Elizabeth David Melissa Pasanen
In Paris Bénédict Beaugé

Recipes Veal scallopini with wine, Saltimbocca, Uccelletti scappati (veal birds), Vitello tonnato, Chouée   Notes and Resources Greek Oregano, Cheese Shop in Colorado, The Cream in Creamed Spinach, New Wine Newsletter   Book ReviewsThe Pleasures of Slow Food, The Last Days of Haute Cuisine, Purer

No. 63  Some Other Wines from Anjou

Some Other Wines from Anjou Edward Behr
Pâtisserie en Boutique Kristen Hinman
Rome’s Guanciale (Cured Hog Jowl) David Downie
Gallery: Cider-Making in North Devon Jacquie Sarsby

Recipes Gratin d’épinards, Fricassée de poulet angevine   Notes and Resources Buying Directly from the Farmer, Cheese from a Lake Champlain Farm, Moderately Priced Sabatier Knives   Book Reviews Thai Food; Vous avez déjà essayé?; Chez Panisse Fruit; The Soups of France; Mediterranean Seafood, third edition; Les Pains Français

No. 62  Twelve Restaurants in Tokyo

Twelve Restaurants in Tokyo Mitchell Davis
Coulée de Serrant: A Difficult Wine from the Loire Edward Behr
Searching for Sweet Red: Why Sweet Red Bell Peppers Don’t Taste as Good as They Used To Leslie Land
Ricotta in the Monti Sicani Harold McGee

Recipes Rillauds d’Anjou, Beurre blanc, Crémets d’Anjou   Notes and ResourcesAcacia Honey from France and Italy, Chocolate from Venezuela   Book Reviews When French Women Cook; Feasting & Fasting in Crete: Delicious Mediterranean Recipes; The Magic of Fire: Open-Hearth Cooking

No. 61  English Food

English Food Edward Behr
Gallery: A Farm Woman’s Work Jacquie Sarsby
A Question of Balance: The Farming of Fish Melissa Pasanen
Albondigas Matthew Goodman
Note from Vichy Bénédict Beaugé

Recipes Albondigas de Prasa kon Muez (leek meatballs with walnuts), Fennel sauce, Kelly’s sauce piquante, Cornish saffon cake   Notes and Resources Old-Style Alaska Salmon, Flavorful Grits   Book Reviews Vegetables from Amaranth to Zucchini;The Way of Tea: The Sublime Art of Oriental Tea Drinking; Damon Lee Fowler’s New Southern Kitchen

No. 60  Paris (Again)

Paris (Again): An Annotated Address Book Edward Behr
Croissants Edward Behr
Why Escoffier? James MacGuire
The Buckwheat Noodle Festival Eun Jeung Kim and Soyoung Scanlan

Recipes Croissants, Petits pois à la laitue, Purée (soup) of green peas   Notes and Resources A Wooden Spoon, Darjeeling Tea

No. 59  Burgundy I

Burgundy I: Parsleyed Ham, Two Burgundian Cheeses, and Spice Bread Edward Behr
Baklava (with a recipe) Engin Akin
Capturing the Darjeeling Flavor: Plucking and the Factory Kevin Gascoyne

Recipes Gougère, Oeufs en meurette, Jambon persillé   Notes and Resources Vermont Sauerkraut, Wild Rice, Thyme Honey from the Catskill Mountains, Redware, Letterpress Books, Plum Pudding   Book Review Growing Up in a Korean Kitchen: a Cookbook

No. 58  Southern Piedmont: Part II

Southern Piedmont Part II: The Great Wines of Barolo (and Barbaresco), How Much Remains of Tradition and Why Does it Matter? With an Intermezzo on Polenta Edward Behr
The Source of Darjeeling’s Ethereal Fragrance Kevin Gascoyne
Stall 54, Càdiz Market Melissa Pasanen

Recipes Bread and zucchini soup from Asti, Puccia (polenta with cabbage and pork), Cherries in Barolo wine   Notes and Resources Chocolate, Polenta, Olive Oil from Northern Peloponisos   Book Reviews The Taste of Bread; Real Wine: The Rediscovery of Natural Winemaking

No. 57  Real Beer in Belgium

Real Beer in Belgium, the Greatest Brewing Country Edward Behr
Charbons David Downie
Lemon Curd Melissa Pasanen
At the Moment in Paris Bénédict Beauge

Recipes Carbonade à la gueuze, Lapin à la kriek, Lemon curd, and Lemon tart curd  Notes and Resources Cultivated Mushrooms, New England Corn Meal   Book Reviews Italian Cheeses: Two Hundred Traditional Types, A Guide to Their Discovery and Appreciation; A Goose in Toulouse and Other Culinary Adventures in France

No. 56  Southern Piedmont, Part I

Southern Piedmont, Part I: High Mountain Pastures and a Brief Introduction to Cooking Edward Behr
The Art of Making Phyllo Rianne Buis
To Brew Darjeeling Tea Kevin Gascoyne

Recipes Peperoni ripieni con tonno, Cinghiale colle castagne, torta di nocciole  Notes and Resources Excellent Moderately Roasted Coffee, Castelmagno Cheese, Enogea, Blue Cheese from Colorado   Book ReviewsThe Indian Grocery Store Demystified; Mattanza: Love and Death in the Sea of Sicily; plus “The Zagat Effect”

No. 55  Provence

Provence: The Cooking of Poor People, Wine from a Southern Climate, Olive Oil from the Valley of Les Baux Edward Behr
Pastured Poultry Melissa Pasanen

Recipes Anchoyade, Sautéed chicken with tomatoes and olives   Notes and Resources Trade Lake Cedar Ewe’s-Milk Cheese, Provençal Olive Oil, Pastured Chicken, Homage to a Miller   Book Reviews Port and the Douro; Kitchen Confidential: Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly; Every Night Italian

No. 54  Emilia Romagna

Emilia Romagna – Ragù, Culatello de Zibello, Sapa and Real Balsamic Vinegar in Modena, La Mortadella, Wine from Romagna, Formaggio di Fossa Edward Behr
A Snapshot of Darjeeling Kevin Gascoyne
A Kitchen in Upper Egypt Nancy Harmon Jenkins

Recipes Ragù, Erbazzone, Melokhia   Notes and Resources Aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena, Darjeeling Teas   Book Reviews Viaggio Nei Giacimenti Golosi, Greener Pastures on Your Side of the Fence, Work Adventures Childhood Dreams

No. 53  Sauternes

Sauternes – the taste of noble rot — the terroir of sugar and how noble rot works — Sémillon, Sauvignon, and the fate of Muscadelle — the picking of only “roasted” grapes  Edward Behr

Recipes Chicken “roasted” in butter with Sauternes sauce, Pears poached in red wine, Pear tart   Notes and Resources Jamison Lamb, Sorghum Syrup, Notes from Paris, L’Amateur de fromage de terroir, The Fight to Save Raw Milk Cheeses   Book Reviews The Basque Kitchen, The Oxford Companion to Wine

No. 52  Restaurants in Northern Italy

Restaurants in Northern Italy Edward Behr
Richard Olney Edward Behr

Recipes Farinata, Focaccia col formaggio di Recco, Red wine soup   Notes and Resources Arbequina Olive Oil, Stockpots, The Problem with Truffle Oil, Pecans  Book Reviews A Catalan Cookery Book, The Oxford Companion to Food

No. 51  The Lost Taste of Pork

The Lost Taste of Pork: Finding a Place for the Iowa Family Farm
Paul Willis and traditional outdoor methods — factory farms — letting pigs be pigs — three Iowa market gardeners — Niman Ranch (again) — the question of organic methods  Edward Behr

Recipes A simple brine for fresh pork, Roasting the pork, Sweet-and-sour shallots, Eggplant and tomato, Sauce for roast pork   Book Review Mourjou: the Life and Food of an Auvergne Village.

No. 50  Venice

Venice – local food versus tourism — ombre, cichetiand bâcari — the Venetian Lagoon — the Rialto markets and the many kinds of fish — the fish market at Chioggia — the greens and gardens — pastry — three Venetian dishes  Edward Behr

Recipes Sardele in saor, Figà a la venexiana   Book Reviews Revised Heirloom Vegetable Gardening, Two Kitchens in Provence

No. 49  Sonoma County

Sonoma County (and a Look at Tomales Bay) — the new olive oils — market gardens — the state of farm-made cheeses — extremely good bread — the California-ness of California wine — some grape-growers and winemakers — Hog Island oysters  Edward Behr

Recipes Olive harvest lamb, Tapenade   Notes and Resources Chocolate, Imperial Tea Court, Sonoma County Appellation Maps   Book Reviews The Cook and the Gardener: A Year of Recipes and Notes from the French Countryside; French Farmhouse Cookbook

No. 48  Champagne

Champagne — the logic of a brand (a blend) as opposed to terroir and vintage — visits to a few top houses  Edward Behr
Foie Gras — duck and goose foie gras in southwest France  Edward Behr

Recipes Far au choux (cabbage pudding)   Notes and Resources Pottery in Paris, The Asian Foodbookery, Pecans

No. 47  A Dry-Aged Steak

A Dry-Aged Steak  Edward Behr
Three Red Wines for Steak  Edward Behr
A Sharp Knife  Edward Behr

Recipes Onion-filled artichoke bottoms, Potato cakes, Marinated flank steak, Steak au poivre   Notes and Resources Simple Cooking   Book Reviews The Vintner’s Table, Mediterranean Grains and Greens, Heirloom Vegetable Gardening

No. 46  Paris (or What is French Food?), Part II

Paris (or What is French Food?), Part II — three-star restaurants and bistros — the Halles and the origins of French food — where is French food going and how long will it last?  Edward Behr

Recipes Carrot soup, Coq au vin   Book Reviews The Food Lover’s Guide to Paris, Le Pudlowski de Paris Gourmand, Eating in Italy, Flavors of Tuscany, Pig Earth

No. 45  Paris (or What is French Food?), Part I

Paris (or What is French Food?), Part I — haute cuisine and the urge to dazzle — the qualities that are irreducibly French — the classic Parisian baguette — where it came from — what creates a great one — a baker of baguettes  Edward Behr

Recipes Soup à l’oignon, Boeuf miroton, Pain rustique   Notes and Resources Olive Oil from the Rare Wine Co., Yerba Santa Goat Dairy, Pomodori a pendolo

No. 44  Two Strong Wines of Mediterranean France

Two Strong Wines of Mediterranean France: the Banyuls of Domaine du Mas Blanc and the Maury of the Mas Amiel  Edward Behr
Caviar  Edward Behr
A Gentle Manifesto on the Craft of Roasting Coffee  Edward Behr

Recipes Blini, Braised duck with sour cherries, Chocolate tart   Notes and Resources Wieninger’s Goat Cheese, Mozzarella from Italcheese, Valrhona Guanaja, Honey from Zingerman’s mail-order, Imperial Tea Court, Upton Tea Imports, coffeereview.com

No. 43  The Caves of Roquefort

The Caves of Roquefort: The Terroir of a Great Cheese — a Roquefort farm — the Lacaune sheep — the caves and the blue mold — what is the terroir? — best brands — how to choose and serve Roquefort — what to drink  Edward Behr

Recipes Prunes in red wine for Roquefort, Roquefort butter for sautéed or grilled veal or beef, Roquefort salad   Notes and Resources Bourbon vs Tahitian Vanilla, Ile de Ré Salt

No. 42  What Creates the Best Vegetables?

What Creates the Best Vegetables?: The Market Garden  Edward Behr
Real Country Bacon  Edward Behr

Recipes Asparagus, Sauce mousseline for asparagus, Asparagus soup   Notes and Resources American Alpine Aged, Kelmscott Farm, Penzeys   Book Review In Nonna’s Kitchen

No. 41  In Tuscany

In Tuscany — the Sangiovese grape —bread without salt — a pot like a bottle — the veneration of olive oil  Edward Behr

Recipes Pici, Schiacciata

No. 40  In the Region of Cognac

In the Region of Cognac — the virtues of the great brandy of the town of Cognac — the butter that is probably the best in France — a farmer of snails — the traditionally made sea salt of the Ile de Ré  Edward Behr
Somehow Good Wines Have to Come to the Attention of Customers  Edward Behr

Recipes Mouclade, Tourteau fromagé   Book Review French Cheeses

No. 39  Looking for Old-Fashioned Cheddar

Looking for Old-Fashioned Cheddar, or What Became of Store Cheese? — 20 or 30 years ago, wheels of aged North American cheddar were commonplace in the country stores of New York and New England; at its best it was one of the world’s great cheeses — a search for survivors and for what made the cheese so good  Edward Behr

Recipes Cheese soufflé, Cheese fritters, Welsh rabbit   Book Review Smokestack Lightning: Adventures in the Heart of Barbecue Country

No. 38  Catalan Food

Catalan Food — the ancient, important, little-known cuisine of the region of Catalonia, which includes Barcelona — sausage-makers, cheesemakers, anchovy-curers, simple restaurants  Edward Behr

Recipes Escabetx de verats (marinated mackerel), Fresh sardines in sweet-and-sour sauce, Saffron custard with caramel   Notes and Resources Lake Garda Olive Oil, Bread-Baking in Summer   Book Review Italy for the Gourmet Traveler, The Melting Pot: Balkan Food and Cookery

No. 37  Alsace

Munster Cheese, Dry Muscat Wine, Choucroute, and Other Happinesses in the Haut-Rhin of Alsace — a guide to gastronomic treasures in southern Alsace  Edward Behr

Recipes Choucroute garnie, Baeckeoffe

No. 36  Dark Chocolate in France

Dark Chocolate: the best chocolate in the world is not Belgian or Swiss but French, and the best chocolatiers may also be French (Pierre Hermé, Robert Linxe, the Bernachons) — the provenances of the best beans — how they are transformed into the best chocolate — tastings of American and European brands  Edward Behr

Recipes Chocolate truffles, Pots de chocolat, Chocolate mousse, Chocolate soufflé, La Grillade des mariniers du Rhône

No. 35  Encounters in Apulia

The strong culinary traditions of the heel of the Italian boot, which is famous for wheat and bread, vegetables, olive oil, wine (albeit more often quantity than quality) — bakers, an exceptional maker pasta-maker, a top olive-oil producer — making ricotta on a mountain farm without electricity — interview with Severino Garofano, outstanding southern enologist  Edward Behr

No. 34  Gombo

Gombo: Acadian Food in Southwest Louisiana — Cajun food, which is rural food — how to make a roux, recipes for two gumbos — crawfish — the roots of Cajun cooking in Acadia, Africa, and France — differences between “Cajun” and “Creole”  Edward Behr

Recipes Chicken, sausage, and oyster gumbo; Seafood gumbo   Notes and Resources Mail Order Sources: Andouille, Tasso, Filée, Red Pepper, Rice

No. 33  Olive Oil

Olive Oil — focus on the delicate, aromatic oil of Lake Garda in northern Italy — the origins of fine olive flavor — the true meaning of “extra-virgin” (acidic taste has nothing to do with it)  Edward Behr
The Fate of Local Cooking  Edward Behr

Recipes Capers in oil, Marinated tuna in olive oil, Lemon cake with olive oil

No. 32  Three Wines of the Loire

Three Wines of the Loire: Bourgueil, Vouvray, and Sancerre — Loire wines with exceptional character, because of their makers and the soil and stone of particular vineyards — visits to Pierre Caslot, Pierre-Jacques Druet, Philippe Foreau, Gaston Huet, Philippe Poniatowski, Edmond and Bernadette Vatan, Jean-Marie Bourgeois  Edward Behr

No. 31  The Coast of Maine

The Coast of Maine — the origins of Downeast cooking — on the water with a lobsterman — lobster pounds — oysters — baked beans — sauerkraut — Indian corn — smoked salmon  Edward Behr

No. 30  Red Wine Vinegar

Red-Wine Vinegar — the last traditional vinegar-maker of the French city of Orleans, and probably of all France, using methods unchanged from the 19th century — what makes great vinegar — how to make it yourself  Edward Behr
Follow-Up on Bread  Edward Behr

Recipe Fricassée de poulet au vinaigre de framboise

No. 29  A Well-Crafted White Loaf

A Well-Crafted White Loaf — that rarest of breads: great white bread — a visit to Acme Bread Co. in Berkeley, California, and interview with Steve Sullivan — the views of Professor Calvel of Paris  Edward Behr

Recipe A basic white loaf of bread   Notes and Resources Olive Oil, Coffee   Book Reviews Provence the Beautiful, The Wines of Greece, How and Why to Build a Wine Cellar, The Lost Upland, Treasures of the Italian Table

No. 28  The Wines of Friuli

In the Vineyards of Friuli — the northeasternmost region of Italy is home to what may be Italy’s finest white wines and to superb red wines from indigenous varieties — culture, history, origins, winemakers, notes on food and restaurants  Edward Behr

Notes and Resources Short Thoughts about Buying and Tasting Wine

No. 27  Provençal Cheeses

The Goat is the Cow of the Poor— Provençal farm cheeses, superb everyday cheeses as well as rare ones (Le Gardien, Camarguais, true Banon) — open-air markets, some outstanding cheesemakers — the unusual techniques traditional to the south of France  Edward Behr

No. 26  The Nature of Lamb

The Nature of Lamb  Edward Behr
Wine Lists  Edward Behr
Restaurant Critics  Edward Behr
Old Standards: The American Minor Breeds Conservancy  Edward Behr

Recipes Garlic sauce for roast lamb or mutton, Navarin

No. 25  High Standards, Hard Work, Simplicity, and a Good Place to Eat

High Standards, Hard Work, Simplicity, and a Good Place to Eat — the meaning of a “good restaurant” and of “simplicity”— the first French restaurants after the Revolution and how we got where we are today — practicalities, problems of raw materials, expectations of eaters.  Edward Behr

No. 24  Wild Mushrooms

Into the Woods — mushrooming — flavorful North American species — best ways to cook them.  Edward Behr

Book Reviews The Splendid Table and The Carolina Rice Kitchen.

No. 23  Maryland Crab

Maryland Crab — a sketch of Maryland’s Eastern Shore — the blue crabs of the Chesapeake Bay — softshell crab.  Edward Behr
Reviewing Cookbooks  Edward Behr

Recipes Crab cakes and three of Mrs. Howard’s crab soups.

No. 22  Pizza in Naples

Pizza in the city where pizza originated and remains better than anywhere else — dough, condiments, the physics of the wood-fired Neapolitan ovens — how pizza came to be in Naples as opposed to anywhere else.  Edward Behr

Recipes Making pizza at home, including the dough and condiments (aglio e olio, alla marinara, Margherita, with mushrooms, quattro stagioni, al Antonio).

No. 21  Honey

Honey Makers —what makes the finest honey — portrait of a Vermont beekeeper.
Between Wild and Tame — Farm-Raised Game Birds  Edward Behr

Recipes Partridges with cabbages, squabs with olives, and guinea fowl with green peppercorns.   Notes and Resources Wild rice and the potato devil.   Book Review Petits Propos Culinaires.

No. 20  A Cup of Coffee

A Cup of Coffee — the flavor derives from the beans’ geographic origin, from their preparation at the plantation, from how light or dark they are roasted, from the way they are ground and then brewed.  Edward Behr

Recipes How to roast coffee, mocha ice   Notes and Resources Sources for Tea and Coffee   Book Review  A Time for Tea.

No. 19  California Sauvignon Blanc

California Sauvignon Blanc  Edward Behr
Potatoes  Edward Behr

Book Reviews The Wine and Food Companion and The Companion Wine Review.

No. 18  The Fundamental Loaf

The Pursuit of the Fundamental Loaf  Edward Behr
Choosing Apple Varieties  Edward Behr

Recipes A basic loaf from commercial yeast, a natural leaven, a basic loaf from a natural leaven, two variations on a sweet bread, salade frisée, and caponata.   Notes and Resources Lehman’s Non-electric Catalogue.

No. 17  An Aged Country Ham

An Aged Country Ham  Edward Behr
On English and French Mustards  Edward Behr

Recipes To poach, toast, and carve an aged country ham; a terrine of pork, veal, spinach, and ham.

No. 16  The Atlantic Salmon

The Atlantic Salmon  Edward Behr
English Walnuts  Edward Behr
Salad Cucumbers  Edward Behr

Recipes Salsa di noci; salmon with cream, sauternes, and raisins; and walnut tart.  Book Reviews Biscuits, Spoonbread, and Sweet Potato Pie; Hot Links and Country Flavors; The Curious Cook; Alphabet Soup; The Bread Book; Fish: The Basics; Salar the Salmon; The Art of Low-Calorie Cooking.

No. 15  Cream

Elegy for the Taste of Cream: Low Technology and Old Pastures  Edward Behr
Eggs  Edward Behr

Recipes Potato and pepper frittata, lemon curd, and angel food cake with chocolate sauce.

No. 14  Wine from Barley

Wine from Barley: Malt + Water + Yeast + Hops  Edward Behr
A Mussel Primer  Edward Behr
Eight Sourdough Cultures  Edward Behr

Recipes Moules á la mariniére (and how to clean and open mussels); mussel soup with saffron, basil, tomato, and cream; and deep-fried mussels.   Book Review The French Cheese Book.

No. 13  Vanilla

Bourbon, Mexican, and Tahitian Vanillas  Edward Behr
Bay Leaves  Edward Behr
A Pot on the Fire — Stock  Edward Behr

Recipes Brown stock, oxtail stew (and soup), potato gratin with bay leaves and tomato, and pears in wine with vanilla.

No. 12  Apples

Apples, Apples, Apples  Edward Behr
Recommended American Cheeses: An Updated List  Edward Behr
Wild Boar  Edward Behr

Recipes Walnut bread, apricot condiment for wild boar or pork, baked whole garlic bulbs.   Book Review Pomp and Sustenance.

No. 11  La Cuisine Québécoise

La Cuisine Québécoise  Edward Behr
The Sweet Orange Carrot  Edward Behr
The Map of the Tongue Edward Behr
Cooking Times  Edward Behr

Recipes Carrot soup with tomato, cool carrot soup, and carrot salad with walnut dressing.

No. 10  Black Pepper

Black Pepper  Edward Behr
Of Wild Yeast, Rhode Island Rye, and Indian Corn  Edward Behr

Recipes Steak au poivre, rye bread from a non-sour leaven, baked pears in vanilla custard.   Book Reviews The Field and Garden Vegetables of America, Adventures on the Wine Route, and Ten Vineyard Lunches.

No. 9  A Flavorful Tomato, Revisited