Something to Taste
November 20, 2014

Chicken “Roasted” in Butter with Sauternes Sauce


Adapted from The Art of Eating no. 53

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If you don’t have a crowd coming for Thanksgiving and you don’t want the traditional turkey, consider “roasting” a chicken (or pheasant) in butter in a covered pot on top of the stove. That’s the... Read more.


November 12, 2014

Modern Food: Where Are We Headed Now?


From The Art of Eating no. 92

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Shaw Nielsen

With modern innovative cooking, as I first realized long ago when I edited an article by an Italian about the newest food in Italy at that time, it can be almost impossible to tell from... Read more.


October 30, 2014

Classic French Sauces


From The Art of Eating no. 85

French Sauces

Drawn by E. Ronjat, engraved by C. LaPlante, in Le Livre de cuisine by Jules Gouffé, Paris, 1867.

By the time I finally worked my way up to saucier, in the mid-1970s, sauces were on the wane. The saucier was the most senior line cook, often doubling as sous chef, and the common perception was that it was the saucier’s... Read more.


October 1, 2014

Chervil


Adapted from The Art of Eating no. 1

Chervil

According to one interpretation, the Latin for chervil means “leaves of joy.” And it’s true that Anthriscus cerefolium, the often-overlooked component of fines herbes, is strongly flattering to some foods. The three other standard components... Read more.


August 22, 2014

Chard Stalks with Anchovy (and Garlic and Saffron)


Recipe adapted from Richard Olney (in Simple French Food and Provence the Beautiful Cookbook)

Credit: Kimberly Behr

Credit: Kimberly Behr

With this recipe, the bland, fleshy stalks of chard are boosted by a very savory sauce that, depending on your expectations when you read the ingredients, is surprisingly good. Often in France, only the stalks... Read more.


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