Improved by the Cold

Parsnips and Brussels Sprouts

By Sandy Oliver

The parsnip-hater surely never ate a parsnip dug in spring after being frozen in the ground over the winter. It tastes like candy. The brussels sprout-avoider has almost certainly never bitten into a sprout that was frosted in late October or harvested in a November snow, when sprouts become downright buttery and sweet. Before they are frozen, parsnips’ earthiness dominates the flavor and brussels sprouts are über-cabbages that smell like the gates of hell. I used to hate both of them.

My mother always included parsnips in her beef stews, and as she served I would watch with anxiety, hoping that somehow the parsnips would fall from the spoon before they reached my plate.

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Edward Behr’s new book is now available for pre-order.
Release date June 14, 2016.

9781594204524_TheFoodandWi_JKF.indd

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